tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-74603836231187533832024-02-06T22:34:54.248-05:00Extension to the 3rd DegreeDedicated to Serving Agricultural Producers and the Community through Kentucky Cooperative ExtensionChristin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.comBlogger55125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-46339715067184192132014-03-06T07:00:00.000-05:002014-03-06T07:00:06.894-05:00Landscape Pruning<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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It has been a long, hard, and cold winter for Carroll County. With the snowy and icy weather we have experienced this week, the beginning of March has certainly lived up to the age-old saying, "in like a lion." Let us all hope it will go "out like a lamb."<br />
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Believe it or not, spring really is on the way, causing homeowners to begin turning their attention to the landscape.<br />
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To ensure healthy spring plants, consider pruning trees and shrubs around the home that have been affected by the weather. However, do not prune just for the sake of pruning--be sure to have a valid reason.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
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Pruning during the late winter months allows us to remove damage caused by winter winds and precipitation, as well as diseased, crowded or hazardous branches.<br />
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When pruning trees, the size of the tree should not be reduced too much in one season. Limit the pruning amount to one-fourth of the tree's volume. Start by thinning out branches by cutting them off close to the tree's trunk or a large limb.<br />
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Leave the base of the branch, known as the collar, intact. Cutting the collar will prevent the plant from growing over the wound caused from pruning. Pruning in this manner allows for a healthy tree that is more open to sunlight and air movement. If the branch is cut back only part way, there will likely be a crowded regrowth of new branches where the cut was made. Do not seal or paint the wounds resulting from pruning because this will only delay the tree's healing process.<br />
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Spring-flowering shrubs may need rejuvenation pruning, and the best time for that is right after they flower. If you prune a shrub before it blooms, you remove buds too soon and do not get an opportunity to enjoy those blooms. When you prune after blooming, you can still enjoy the flowers and the plant can recover, grow, and produce more buds for flowers next spring.<br />
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For rejuvenation pruning, remove one-third of the shrub's oldest growth. Select the thickest, darkest and unhealthiest stems or branches to cut back. Cut back stems to soil level and branches to the point of intersection with the shrub's main trunk. This ensures that only the youngest, most productive wood (the which produces the most and best flowers) remains a part of the shrub. During early spring, prune shrubs that will bloom during the summer months.<br />
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Pruning is not limited to a certain time of the year. You can prune at any time if you notice damaged branches and limbs. The process is invigorating for the plants in a home landscape so do not necessarily think of pruning just as a means of size control.<br />
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If you have a plant that has grown out-of-bounds, pruning may not be the answer. Consider replacing the plant with one that will reach a smaller size at maturity.<br />
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Trees and shrubs to prune in late winter/early spring while still dormant are:<br />
<ul>
<li>Bradford pear (<i>Pyrus calleryana</i>)</li>
<li>Butterfly Bush (<i>Buddleia Davidii</i>)</li>
<li>Crape myrtle (<i>Lagerstroemia indica</i>)</li>
<li>Flowering dogwood (<i>Cornus florida</i>)</li>
<li>Flowering plum (<i>Prunus blireana</i>)</li>
<li>Glossy abelia (<i>Abelia x grandiflora</i>)</li>
<li>Golden rain tree (<i>Koelreuteria paniculata</i>)</li>
<li>Hydrangea, Peegee (<i>Hydrangea paniculata </i>'Grandiflora')</li>
<li>Potentilla (<i>Potentilla fruticosa</i>)</li>
<li>Redbud (<i>Cercis canadensis</i>)</li>
<li>Spirea (except bridal wreath) (<i>Spirea japonica</i>)</li>
<li>Wisteria (<i>Wistera species</i>)</li>
</ul>
Trees and shrubs to prune in late spring/summer, after bloom are:<br />
<ul>
<li>Azalea (Rhododendron species)</li>
<li>Beauty bush (<i>Kolkwitzia amabilis</i>)</li>
<li>Bridal wreath spirea (<i>Spirea x vanhouttei</i>)</li>
<li>Flowering crabapple (Malus species and cultivars)</li>
<li>Forsythia (<i>forsythia x intermedia</i>)</li>
<li>Hawthorn (Crataegus species and cultivars)</li>
<li>Hydrangea, Bigleaf (<i>Hydrangea macrophylla</i>)</li>
<li>Lilac (<i>Syringa vulgaris</i>)</li>
<li>Magnolia (Magnolia species and cultivars)</li>
<li>Mock orange (<i>Philadelphus coronarius</i>)</li>
<li>Mountain laurel (<i>Kalmia latifolia</i>)</li>
<li>Serviceberry (<i>Amelanchier x grandiflora</i>)</li>
<li>Slender deutzia (<i>deutzia gracilis</i>)</li>
<li>Weigela (<i>Weigela florida</i>)</li>
</ul>
For more information on pruning, check out the UK publications <a href="http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/ho/ho45/ho45.pdf" target="_blank">HO-45: Pruning Landscape Trees</a> and <a href="http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/ho/ho59/HO59.PDF" target="_blank">HO-59: Pruning Landscape Shrubs</a>.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-83157521015805064652014-01-16T07:00:00.000-05:002014-01-16T07:00:04.546-05:00Timely Cattle Tips for January<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<i>University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service</i>)</td></tr>
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<b>Spring-Calving Cow Herd</b><br />
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Start cows on the high magnesium mineral supplement soon. Consider protein supplementation if hay is less than 10% crude protein. If cows are thin, begin energy (grain) supplementation now.<br />
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Consider vaccinating the cows to help prevent calf scours.<br />
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Get ready for calving season. See that all equipment and materials are ready, including obstetrical equipment, record forms or booklets, ear tags, scales for obtaining birthweights, etc.<br />
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Prepare a calving area where assistance can be provided easily if needed. Purchase ear tags for calves and number them ahead of time if possible. Plan for enough labor to watch/assist during the calving period.<br />
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Move early-calving heifers and cows to pastures that are relatively small and easily accessible to facilities in case calving assistance is needed. Keep them in good condition but do not overfeed them at this time. Increase their nutrient intake after they calve.<br />
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Keep replacement heifer calves gaining enough to reach their "target" breeding weight (65% mature weight) by spring.<br />
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Study the performance of last year's calf crop and plan for improvement. Plan your breeding program and consider a better herd sire(s). Select herd sires which will allow you to meet your goals and be willing to pay for superior animals.<br />
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<b>Fall-Calving Cow Herd</b><br />
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Breeding season continues. Keep fall calving cows on accumulated pasture as long as possible, then start feeding hay/grain. Do not let these cows get too thin.<br />
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Provide clean windbreaks and shelter for young calves.<br />
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Remove bulls by Valentine's Day. That means that your 2014 fall calving season will end in November.<br />
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Catch up on castrating, dehorning, and implanting.<br />
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<b>General</b><br />
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Feed hay in areas where mud is less of a problem. Consider preparing a feeding area with gravel over geotextile fabric. Materials for construction of these high-traffic pads can be cost-share eligible items.<br />
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Increase feed as the temperature drops, especially when the weather is extremely cold and damp. When temperature drops to 15 degrees F, cattle need access to windbreaks.<br />
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Provide water at all times. Cattle need 5 to 11 gallons per head daily even in the coldest weather.<br />
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Be aware of frozen pond hazards. Keep ice "broken" so that cattle will not walk out on the pond trying to get water.<br />
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Consider renovating and improving pastures with legumes, especially if they have poor stands of grass or if they contain high levels of the fescue endophyte. Purchase seed and get equipment ready this month.<br />
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<i>Source: Dr. Roy Burris, Beef Extension Specialist, University of Kentucky </i>Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-91670470054574679832014-01-09T07:00:00.000-05:002014-01-09T07:00:07.394-05:00Control Winter Pests of Cattle: Lice<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<i>Montana State University Extension</i>)</td></tr>
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It has been a cold start to the week and making sure our livestock are adequately cared for in these cold temperatures is a concern for all livestock producers.<br />
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In addition to being mindful of feeding high quality forages and supplemental grain to provide energy and keeping waterers flowing, we should also take a look at another pest of winter: lice.<br />
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Lice are cold-loving pests that can spread when animals bunch together in response to frigid temperatures.<br />
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Reduce potential lice problems on cattle by keeping new animals separate from our herd until you have given them a thorough louse treatment, generally two applications of a contact insecticide.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
The first application kills active adults and immature lice, but it will not destroy nits on the hide. A second application targets new hatchlings from the nits and any other lice still around.<br />
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Be sure to follow the label instructions on treatment intervals. After these two treatments, you can add new animals to the herd with minimal chance of lice problems during the winter.<br />
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Do not use systemic insecticides during the winter unless you know the treatment history of newly bought cattle. This is because migrating grubs might be in sensitive locations and cause an adverse reaction this time of year.<br />
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Winter also is a good time to reduce future weevil problems in alfalfa by letting beef or dairy cattle graze dormant fields. Alfalfa weevils lay a significant number of their eggs in living and dead stems.<br />
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Winter grazing helps manage alfalfa weevils in two ways: grazing removes stems holding deposits of weevil eggs, and it removes stems that can serve as sites for females to lay the remaining eggs in the spring.<br />
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Letting your cattle graze alfalfa fields in the winter can reduce weevil populations substantially, possibly to the level that you will not need a spring insecticide application.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-72758441609677230462014-01-06T10:29:00.000-05:002014-01-06T10:29:29.868-05:00Cold Stress & Newborn Calves<i>Source:</i><br />
<i>Michelle Arnold, DVM, DABVP (Food Animal)</i><br />
<i>Ruminant Extension Veterinarian</i><br />
<i>University of Kentucky</i><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiefevSsaqjNLXGU-VCL7fSG0rvMwjHH1PzXAx05gMJRIu2R4KXSPGwuOqKiykL5xRJs0q565VLDy6mq7wbrg4gosJp78HwuT1DSMThl2PpCRjVLn30saTMSU3GJ59TSYYlcZc3KNvp1Os5/s1600/Winter+UK.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiefevSsaqjNLXGU-VCL7fSG0rvMwjHH1PzXAx05gMJRIu2R4KXSPGwuOqKiykL5xRJs0q565VLDy6mq7wbrg4gosJp78HwuT1DSMThl2PpCRjVLn30saTMSU3GJ59TSYYlcZc3KNvp1Os5/s1600/Winter+UK.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<i>Matt Barton, UK Agricultural Communications</i>)</td></tr>
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As the weather is predicted to be bitter cold over the next two days, producers should take extra care of newborn calves to ensure their survival.<br />
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A calf's body temperature often falls below normal due to a slow birth (dystocia) followed by delayed standing and nursing. Returning the calf's core body temperature to normal (100 degrees F for newborn calves) is the immediate concern, then maintaining that core temperature is of secondary concern.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
If at all possible, bring close-up cows indoors to calve in a heavily bedded, clean pen. If calving outdoors, make sure there is dry, clean ground available for the cows to calve on without a large amount of manure. If the cow calves outdoors, bring the calf in until warm and dry, if the calf is showing signs of hypothermia and/or there are no natural windbreaks available.<br />
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The two most important factors in calf survival are warmth and colostrum. Before giving colostrum, a chilled calf first needs to be warmed as these newborns are typically too weak to suckle. Colostrum may be delivered by an esophageal feeder. Karo syrup (dark is preferred) delivered by mouth to a calf is a quick source of readily available energy and is rapidly absorbed into the bloodstream.<br />
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Methods to warm a calf include:<br />
<ol>
<li>Floor board heaters of pickup trucks.</li>
<li>Submersion of wet calves in a warm bath--you must support the calf to prevent drowning. The water should be gradually warmed to 100 degrees F and will need to be changed to keep it at that temperature.</li>
<li>Placing calves next to the heater in the house.</li>
<li>Placing the calf under a heat lamp--be careful to cover the lamp with a screen so the calf will not get burned as it becomes more active.</li>
<li>Warm blankets--these should not be so hot that they can cause skin burns. Change the blankets as needed to maintain a consistent temperature and not allow the calf to cool off.</li>
<li>Hot box or warming box--the temperature should not be so high that burns could result. Some type of venting is necessary to prevent buildup of carbon monoxide and moisture. Air movement is also important to ensure thorough warming of the calf and prevent hot spots in a warming box.</li>
<li>Warm IV fluids may be administered by a veterinarian.</li>
</ol>
Once the calf has been warmed, provide colostrum and maintain body temperature. Colostrum is a concentrated source of protein, vitamins, minerals and energy, and also contains antibodies to diseases or vaccines that the dam has been exposed to. If the calf is unwilling to suck and it is not possible to milk the dam, commercial colostrum replacement products are available.<br />
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Calves should be fed colostrum as soon as possible after the suckle reflex has returned--generally within the first six (6) hours after birth, but ideally within 1-2 hours after birth. Once the calf is warm and fed, move it back to its mother.<br />
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For more information on the effect of cold temperatures on livestock, please read the UK article, "<a href="http://news.ca.uky.edu/article/bitter-cold-temps-will-create-prolonged-period-livestock-cold-stress" target="_blank">Bitter Cold Temps Will Create Prolonged Period of Livestock Cold Stress</a>." Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-47322221787810912482013-11-27T16:16:00.000-05:002013-11-27T16:16:25.526-05:002013 CAIP to Begin in Carroll County<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Applications will be available on Friday, December 6 for the 2013 Carroll County Agricultural Investment Program (CAIP) at the Carroll County Extension Office.<div>
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Applications must be picked up and returned to the Carroll County Extension Office between <u style="font-weight: bold;">December 6 and December 20</u>. We cannot accept applications before or after those dates. All applications must be into the Extension office by December 20 at 4:30 p.m.</div>
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A Farm Serial Number is required information for the application, and it is strongly recommended you contact the Farm Service Agency (FSA) at (502) 732-6931 to receive or confirm that number. Only the FSA can provide your Farm Serial Number.</div>
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<div>
The CAIP is a cost-share program that originates from the 1998 Master Tobacco Settlement and provides funding for the following agricultural categories:</div>
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<b><a name='more'></a><br /></b></div>
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<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://agpolicy.ky.gov/funds/Documents/caip_guidelines13_ag-diversification.pdf" target="_blank">Agricultural Diversification</a></b></li>
<ul>
<li>Includes commercial horticulture production, commercial aquaculture production, and timber production.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://agpolicy.ky.gov/funds/Documents/caip_guidelines13_animal-large.pdf" target="_blank">Large Animal (Beef Cattle, Dairy Cattle, Equine)</a></b></li>
<ul>
<li>For cattle, includes bull purchase/lease, semen purchase, artificial insemination, heifer purchases, as well as equipment and building materials for cattle handling facilities and milk production.</li>
<li>Equine includes exerciser equipment, temporary/permanent shade, and mare/foal monitoring system.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://agpolicy.ky.gov/funds/Documents/caip_guidelines13_animal-small.pdf" target="_blank">Small Animal (Goats, Sheep, Swine, Bees, Rabbits)</a></b></li>
<ul>
<li>Includes cost-share items related to genetics and handling facilities for goats, sheep, swine, bees, and rabbits.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://agpolicy.ky.gov/funds/Documents/caip_guidelines13_infrastructure.pdf" target="_blank">Farm Infrastructure</a></b></li>
<ul>
<li>Includes hay/straw/commodity storage, greenhouse construction/conversion, construction/renovation of livestock/equine/poultry facilities, and on-farm composting.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://agpolicy.ky.gov/funds/Documents/caip_guidelines13_fencewater.pdf" target="_blank">Fencing & On-Farm Water</a></b></li>
<ul>
<li>Fencing includes items for perimeter and interior fencing at a reimbursement of up to $1.50 per foot. Water includes farm pond establishment/repair, automatic waterers, and field drainage.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://agpolicy.ky.gov/funds/Documents/caip_guidelines13_foragegrain.pdf" target="_blank">Forage & Grain Improvement</a></b></li>
<ul>
<li>Includes seed, lime, commodity handling equipment, and limited forage equipment. Fertilizer is <u>NOT</u> an eligible item.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://agpolicy.ky.gov/funds/Documents/caip_guidelines13_energy.pdf" target="_blank">On-Farm Energy</a></b></li>
<ul>
<li>Includes a range of energy efficient equipment, upgrades, and projects.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://agpolicy.ky.gov/funds/Documents/caip_guidelines13_poultry.pdf" target="_blank">Poultry & Other Fowl</a></b></li>
<ul>
<li>Includes commercial breeding stock, feeders, houses, and shelters.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://agpolicy.ky.gov/funds/Documents/caip_guidelines13_technology.pdf" target="_blank">Technology & Leadership Development</a></b></li>
<ul>
<li>Includes equipment related to Precision Agriculture (GPS items), Animal Data Management, Record Management Software, Internet Service, and Leadership Development.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://agpolicy.ky.gov/funds/Documents/caip_guidelines13_value-added.pdf" target="_blank">Value-Added & Marketing</a></b></li>
<ul>
<li>Includes items related to value-added products, agritourism development, certified/commercial kitchen construction or renovation, marketing, and promotion.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<div>
For approved applicants, the program will reimburse the producers 75% of his/her eligible cost-share expenditures.</div>
</div>
<div>
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<div>
The maximum producer limit is $2000.</div>
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<div>
After the December 20 deadline to turn in applications, applications will be scored. Following scoring, those producers who are approved to receive funding will be notified of their approval through a letter sent out by the Program Administrator, Laraine Staples.</div>
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<div>
For those producers approved, the deadline to turn in receipts is July 15, 2014. However, receipts can be back-dated to May 7, 2013, meaning that producers can turn in eligible cost-share items for reimbursement that date back to May 7, 2013.</div>
<div>
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<div>
<b><u>IMPORTANT!</u></b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Participation in CAIP requires a minimum of one (1) educational component attained within the last 6 months related to farm management, production, best management practices, or marketing. Examples of types of sessions include workshops, seminars, field days, university sanctioned online courses, webinars, etc.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Documentation of attendance is required.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Cost-share payments <u style="font-weight: bold;">SHALL NOT</u> be issued to producers before the educational requirement has been met. It is the responsibility of the producers to make sure he/she meets this requirement.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Two CAIP Information Sessions and Educational Opportunities will be held during the application period at the Carroll County Extension Office:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Tuesday, December 10 at 6:30 p.m.</li>
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<li>Monday, December 16 at 6:30 p.m.</li>
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These programs will go over 2013 CAIP changes as well as provide education on the Kentucky Agriculture Water Quality Plan and soil fertility. Please bring a copy of your FSA farm map. Any application questions can be taken at this time.</div>
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Find out more information on the Kentucky Agricultural Development Fund at the <a href="http://agpolicy.ky.gov/Pages/default.aspx" target="_blank">Governor's Office of Agricultural Policy</a>.</div>
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Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-16998549869777638892013-10-24T07:00:00.000-04:002013-10-24T07:00:07.864-04:00Fall Composting<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzALSz_u5wBbizR2K6ijc8bAw_EHWY8KyPbfTxgsiTxPQMaQuV4tZ4DG3MfREzjxDQxTaZE_vOyUSJ9dSP_OL6zgjlFVnGEWBMsd7-sbaF2X5IOgmZMtiF4B78ubitlmC22uGL1ruTN5cZ/s1600/Compost+Sign+Clemson.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzALSz_u5wBbizR2K6ijc8bAw_EHWY8KyPbfTxgsiTxPQMaQuV4tZ4DG3MfREzjxDQxTaZE_vOyUSJ9dSP_OL6zgjlFVnGEWBMsd7-sbaF2X5IOgmZMtiF4B78ubitlmC22uGL1ruTN5cZ/s400/Compost+Sign+Clemson.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<i>Clemson Univeristy Extension</i>)</td></tr>
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As the fall season progresses, leaves and other yard waste can pile up. Composting is a practice that is beneficial to the environment and allows property owners to get ride of yard wastes in an effective manner.<br />
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Finished compost can be used for a variety of tasks: improve soil structure in gardens and landscape beds, help soil hold nutrients, reduce erosion and water runoff, reduce weed problems as mulch, moderate soil temperatures, and conserve soil moisture. Composting yard and kitchen wastes also reduces the volume of material going into landfills.<br />
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Weeds free of seed heads and residues, like vines and pruned limbs, make a good addition to a compost pile. It is not necessary to remove grass clippings from the lawn if you follow proper lawn management practices; however, if you decide to compost grass clippings mix them with other materials like leaves or brush.<br />
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You also can compost many kitchen scraps such as fruit and vegetable peelings and cores, coffee grounds, tea bags and crushed eggshells. However, avoid cooked foods, meat, bones, fat or dairy products because they attract animals.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUi1G3Mthrl554m58zdx25oIEi0gt4E2FhTsYbwF0xaansDAMmJB-fDEXGecbB56LbVHkK1Ql8xZ7UyN8yLfcHUfYhmiZQTIb7lnN76tNoV1PQP6JsdIpMr3YMOTkOdFhNuY-kJLXNAmCI/s1600/Compost+Layers+Missouri+Extension.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUi1G3Mthrl554m58zdx25oIEi0gt4E2FhTsYbwF0xaansDAMmJB-fDEXGecbB56LbVHkK1Ql8xZ7UyN8yLfcHUfYhmiZQTIb7lnN76tNoV1PQP6JsdIpMr3YMOTkOdFhNuY-kJLXNAmCI/s320/Compost+Layers+Missouri+Extension.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Example of Compost Layers (<i>University of Missouri Extension</i>)</td></tr>
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Put the compost pile on a well-drained site that will benefit from nutrients running off the pile. If just starting to compost, prepare the pile in layers of materials, alternating green leafy material with brush or other woody material. If your compost material contains no soil, sprinkle a little soil or a compost starter in each layer to inoculate the pile with microorganisms.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMlwW5sHlhAjHS4Hkbo35Hdne4ElOdE0I38L6In1eUh968uLUWTAxPzVtZS8Z2E8TFD_iV91JHw1RCm6Tpul949MIz6tQsKi2qlCVM4uUgGUwVgXgs6IexcNiGrTu9aIY1LnN1qsTMkcy/s1600/Compost+Pile+Illinois+Extension.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMlwW5sHlhAjHS4Hkbo35Hdne4ElOdE0I38L6In1eUh968uLUWTAxPzVtZS8Z2E8TFD_iV91JHw1RCm6Tpul949MIz6tQsKi2qlCVM4uUgGUwVgXgs6IexcNiGrTu9aIY1LnN1qsTMkcy/s320/Compost+Pile+Illinois+Extension.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<i>University of Illinois Extension</i>)</td></tr>
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Ideally, the pile should be 1 cubic yard (3 by 3 by 3 feet).<br />
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If you are only going to compost tree leaves, layering might not be necessary; simply add leaves as you collect them. When leaves are dry, add moisture.<br />
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Since dead leaves do not have adequate nitrogen for rapid decomposition, mix them with grass clippings or add high-nitrogen fertilizer to speed up breakdown. For example, add 5 ounces (one-half cup) of fertilizer containing 10 percent nitrogen analysis for each 20 gallons of compressed leaves.<br />
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To ensure good aeration and drainage, occasionally put down a 3-inch layer of coarse plant material like small twigs or chopped corn stalks, or use a wooden pallet.<br />
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The composting process can be completed in one to two months if materials are shredded, turned to provide good aeration, kept moist, and supplied with nitrogen and other materials that cater to compost-promoting microorganisms.<br />
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Periodically turn the compost pile once a month or when the center of the pile is noticeably hot. This will help microbes more efficiently break down wastes. The more often you aerate, the more quickly you will have useable compost. Compost is useable when it fails to heat up after turning.<br />
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Adequate moisture is essential for microbial activity. Water the pile so it is damp but does not remain soggy. It is especially important to supply water during dry periods and when you add leaves and other dry materials to the compost pile.<br />
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If the pile emits an ammonia smell, it is too wet or packed too tightly for oxygen circulation. Turn the heap and add some coarse material such as small twigs to increase air space.<br />
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For more information on composting, check out <a href="http://www2.ca.uky.edu/enri/compost.php" target="_blank">UK's resources on composting</a>.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-78087025152385643972013-08-28T14:58:00.000-04:002013-08-28T14:58:00.655-04:00C.R.A.N.E. Takes Flight<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="353" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBGgi5XjxCxhdjrU21MoYuN3H1tfAQ567YORhfmfxIsBdm7FBfdiU2MpdLbvwfofWf78Oa0zJkyqPrYawi2UfOSX4ankl5ZhfIdIjm5y0wMS8xxckfABS0XC4aVg7SG7kkxRELKPkYrFp6/s640/IMG_0614.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">C.R.A.N.E. on the Kentucky River</td></tr>
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Over the past several months, a couple of the area Agriculture & Natural Resources Extension Agents and I have been planning a new Extension program that focuses more on our local natural resources.<br />
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We call this program "Conserving Resources through Agricultural and Natural Exploration," or C.R.A.N.E.<br />
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C.R.A.N.E. was developed to bring awareness and consideration to our natural resources by thinking outside of the classroom and learning about those resources through exploring our surroundings.<br />
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The first exploration took place this past Saturday as a canoe/kayak tour on the Kentucky River in Carroll County. Seventeen participants joined us for the tour that started at Lock and Dam 1 and ended at Point Park. Participants canoed and kayaked 4.1 miles on what was a perfect day to be on the river. Along the way, we looked at agricultural conservation practices, identified wildlife, and spoke about water quality.<br />
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Participants seemed to really enjoy being out on the water, and many expressed interest in joining future explorations. We were very appreciative to have an excellent group of people join us!<br />
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This first exploration of C.R.A.N.E. could not have been successful without the great people that helped make it happen. A big thank you goes to Brent Leite, owner of <a href="http://www.tworiversadventures.com/" target="_blank">Two Rivers Adventures</a> in Carrollton, for providing the kayaks and canoes, as well as being an excellent educational resource. Also, a huge thank you to Rhonda and Junie Welch, and the folks at <a href="http://www.downonmainstreetky.com/" target="_blank">Down on Main Street Restaurant </a>for providing lunch for the event.<br />
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Finally, the development and first-time execution of this program was a success due to the great minds of Lindie Huffman, Agriculture and Natural Resources Extension Agent for Pendleton County, and Rex McBride, Agriculture and Natural Resources/Environmental Education Extension Agent in Boone County.<br />
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Future explorations are planned through C.R.A.N.E. including exploring the Ohio, Little Kentucky, and Licking Rivers.<br />
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Check out pictures from the river tour!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXDP7URGgcuptxiYG6DUXC_7J0fwLmyywMKrZOncE3BJcXrUc7wZoC_HQgZty_5tsyD2G-ISJ9_7LyaBrrwk-PoS_jM7cUgw-1rCSR4XBAogKyFn7Q3jahmGphMe-lEqYHKuVwMqF161lo/s1600/CRANE+KY+River+Canoe+Tour+2013-08-24.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="505" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXDP7URGgcuptxiYG6DUXC_7J0fwLmyywMKrZOncE3BJcXrUc7wZoC_HQgZty_5tsyD2G-ISJ9_7LyaBrrwk-PoS_jM7cUgw-1rCSR4XBAogKyFn7Q3jahmGphMe-lEqYHKuVwMqF161lo/s640/CRANE+KY+River+Canoe+Tour+2013-08-24.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">C.R.A.N.E. Participants on the First Exploration</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Launching off from Lock and Dam 1</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pausing for an Educational Moment</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqSL6gQnEo_b_4nm3118DDclpFmWpaIGpPj3p7r6O0337-QaPWhr-plQn0xnEPPNOqjocnPuhstfCpSpw43c7p9yHf5zpz9sMnEGHKFwwSc015MQuZrBCbOIx9pza7x6oikVmuAc4VuF3i/s1600/IMG_0617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="387" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqSL6gQnEo_b_4nm3118DDclpFmWpaIGpPj3p7r6O0337-QaPWhr-plQn0xnEPPNOqjocnPuhstfCpSpw43c7p9yHf5zpz9sMnEGHKFwwSc015MQuZrBCbOIx9pza7x6oikVmuAc4VuF3i/s640/IMG_0617.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">C.R.A.N.E. Participants</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">C.R.A.N.E. on the Kentucky River in Carroll County</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting for a Barge to Pass on the Ohio River</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Extension Agents, from Left to Right: Christin Herbst (Carroll), Rex McBride (Boone), Lindie Huffman (Pendleton)</td></tr>
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<br />Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-47218981813629327362013-06-27T12:00:00.000-04:002013-06-27T12:00:01.140-04:00Kentucky Forest Facts<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5xLSgM8o5wmWgh_SgO5RQYlrHHW30LDtjyBoQtcSQhJrlFbtPu-TpLyCa-ZtR0am0X3rolNHv8jduUp41XIrFuCRBc7_OchzuE7ky2GF42PpSZ8zLUebMkl7buZZE5zLUxYqlSY32EjwI/s489/Forest+1+UK.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5xLSgM8o5wmWgh_SgO5RQYlrHHW30LDtjyBoQtcSQhJrlFbtPu-TpLyCa-ZtR0am0X3rolNHv8jduUp41XIrFuCRBc7_OchzuE7ky2GF42PpSZ8zLUebMkl7buZZE5zLUxYqlSY32EjwI/s400/Forest+1+UK.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<i>University of Kentucky, Department of Forestry</i>)</td></tr>
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Kentucky has an abundance of trees--about 12.4 million forested acres.<br />
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In Eastern Kentucky, forests are full of dense stands of hardwoods. In Western Kentucky, you are more likely to see a riparian forest along a winding river. In Central Kentucky, stately bur oaks often populate urban landscapes.<br />
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In Carroll County, we have over 27,000 forested acres--that is 30.4 percent of the total county.<br />
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Regardless of the species or climate, forests help all of us breathe cleaner air, drink cleaner water, and enjoy forest wildlife. In addition, we also are able to utilize products from them every day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Q0e5m6SCiZWzZe6O-_lekfPMCzrcbMHdXoDc35dMDvqJM3WsrDkMWhQDJ2A3hoX3sj22Vv0fbSDxczClB9nSt18zAYFjb8VGMepivml9wYSgeMNI74OGLugd4TkhCo7crrfwvl9AlIs8/s802/Yellow+Poplar+Paul+Wray+Iowa+State+University+Bugwood.org.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Q0e5m6SCiZWzZe6O-_lekfPMCzrcbMHdXoDc35dMDvqJM3WsrDkMWhQDJ2A3hoX3sj22Vv0fbSDxczClB9nSt18zAYFjb8VGMepivml9wYSgeMNI74OGLugd4TkhCo7crrfwvl9AlIs8/s400/Yellow+Poplar+Paul+Wray+Iowa+State+University+Bugwood.org.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow Poplar Leaves (<i>Paul Wray, Iowa State University, Bugwood.org</i>)</td></tr>
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Do you know our state tree? The yellow-poplar replaced the Kentucky coffeetree as the state tree in 1994 due to its abundance and commercial importance to the state. The Kentucky coffeetree is now considered the state heritage tree.<br />
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Due to our diverse climate and soil composition, many tree species grow in Kentucky, and they impact us in many ways. Here is an interesting quiz about the impact trees and tree products have on our lives in Kentucky:<br />
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<i>Kentucky has to replant many of the acres after tree harvesting. True or false?</i><br />
<ul>
<li>False. Sprouting from stumps and fallen seeds will quickly repopulate a harvested area.</li>
</ul>
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<i>Forest and related industries are important to Kentucky's economy. True or false?</i><br />
<ul>
<li>True. In Kentucky, 105 of 120 counties have some type of wood industry that employs approximately 51,000 people.</li>
</ul>
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<i>What percentage of Kentucky is forested? 35, 50, or 60 percent?</i><br />
<ul>
<li>Fifty percent, or more than 12 million acres, of Kentucky is forested.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<i>The best time to view Kentucky's fall foliage usually is between the second and third weekends in October. True or false?</i><br />
<ul>
<li>True. For more information on times and locations to view fall foliage colors as October approaches, call 1-800-225-8747 or visit <a href="http://www.kentuckytourism.com/">KentuckyTourism.com</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<i>Sun is the only energy required to grow a tree. True or false?</i><br />
<ul>
<li>True. Sun is the only energy needed for trees to grow. As they grow, trees remove carbon dioxide from the air and produce oxygen through photosynthesis.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<i>How many products are produced from trees? 3500, 4700, or 5000?</i><br />
<ul>
<li>Some 5000 products are produced from trees, ranging from our homes and furnishings to the toothpaste we use.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<i>How much paper does each person in the United States use on average every year? 250, 500, or 750 pounds?</i><br />
<ul>
<li>Each person in the United States uses 750 pounds of paper per year.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<i>Nationwide, approximately how many tons (2000 pounds equals 1 ton) of paper are recycled? Approximately 28, 40, 46, or 53 million tons?</i><br />
<ul>
<li>We recycle about 46 million tons of paper each year.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<i>What percentage of a tree can be used to make wood and paper products? 50, 67, 75, or 100 percent?</i><br />
<ul>
<li>All of a tree (100 percent) can be used to make wood and paper products.</li>
</ul>
<br />
How interesting Kentucky Forests are!Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-4942510842589444062013-06-27T07:00:00.000-04:002013-06-27T07:00:10.168-04:00A Sure Sign of Summer: Lightning Bugs<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLUyEy_Y2cvUbpN5lE_n20Qm6G2WsIiiLLAO4nwpyvRucabSHhgMsieGwBQ38a-v-_oQJWJqfzLNlls7D2ZjcaALUBq3Q5nStIq1DlGb1ochB_qwqIimGtH4BlWrlTS8sXDpNxorgLUxXh/s1600/Lightning+Bug+R+Bessin+2000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLUyEy_Y2cvUbpN5lE_n20Qm6G2WsIiiLLAO4nwpyvRucabSHhgMsieGwBQ38a-v-_oQJWJqfzLNlls7D2ZjcaALUBq3Q5nStIq1DlGb1ochB_qwqIimGtH4BlWrlTS8sXDpNxorgLUxXh/s320/Lightning+Bug+R+Bessin+2000.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lightning Bug (<i>R Bessin 2000, University of Kentucky</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Lightning bugs. What adult doesn't have memories of chasing and catching these fascinating little insects?<br />
<br />
When my brothers and I were little, we spent many hours chasing bug and bug, and placing them in a jar with holes punched in the lid. Then, we would sit in a dark room and watch these glowing wonders.<br />
<br />
Lightning bugs, also known as fireflies, do more than generate entertaining childhood memories--they also help control some pests in the garden.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
On summer nights, glow worms (luminescent firefly larvae) often emerge from their underground homes to forage for food. A typical menu includes slugs, snails, and caterpillars, including cutworms.<br />
<br />
The larvae feed much like a spider by injecting a paralyzing toxin into their prey. Then, they inject digestive juices to dissolve the prey and allow it to be more easily consumed. The adults most likely feed on plant nectar to sustain their energy requirements.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglCcKWUEhvO0-_3GURa0hLtDEurAyRAWpS8I-nDahOkoKb52KESNah0lZq-k1uZ3gk_WgEMfdX0__1uRwk5X9b_afMrNefjgpAeboBJYla6Wlu_OG7VAKDBgzMbEEZrYscUecfOSK-NiNp/s1600/Lightning+Bugs+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglCcKWUEhvO0-_3GURa0hLtDEurAyRAWpS8I-nDahOkoKb52KESNah0lZq-k1uZ3gk_WgEMfdX0__1uRwk5X9b_afMrNefjgpAeboBJYla6Wlu_OG7VAKDBgzMbEEZrYscUecfOSK-NiNp/s400/Lightning+Bugs+2.jpg" width="277" /></a></div>
<br />
A good question to ask is, why do lightning bugs glow?<br />
<br />
There are several theories. One is that the flashing light is a homing beacon for the opposite sex. The male flies around flashing the signal to attract a female's attention. A female on the ground or on low-growing foliage will signal back when a male visits her vicinity. To avoid confusion, each firefly species has its own specific signal to attract a mate.<br />
<br />
Another theory is that lightning bug larvae use their luminescence to warn a potential predator that they taste bad. Larvae contain defensive chemicals in their bodies. Then disturbed, larvae also increase their glow's intensity and frequency.<br />
<br />
Typical nighttime habitats for adults and larvae take lace in rotting wood or other forest litter, or on the edges of water sources such as streams, ponds, marshes, and ditches. The highest species diversity is in tropical Asia and Central and South America. Some Asian species have tracheal gills that enable them to live under water where they feed on aquatic snails.<br />
<br />
To attract lightning bugs to your property, reduce or eliminate lawn chemicals. Add low, over-hanging trees, tall grass and similar vegetation to give adult fireflies a coll place to rest during the day.<br />
<br />
Reduce extra lighting on your property because this light interferes with lightning bugs' luminous signals, making it harder to them to locate mates in the area. Fireflies also determine the time of night they will flash by the intensity of ambient light. This is why you do not see many lightning bugs flashing on clear nights with a full moon.<br />
<br />
Have fun this summer!Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-64277522517706931732013-06-26T13:27:00.001-04:002013-06-26T13:52:17.819-04:00Encountering Young Wildlife<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_kCYxovSLZofPm2nnBSA55Me_JBR5-PXlk5qfoL9nTRXlkd_PSAGAhTiNXcMiBY1U6Y-fBJTIBMcmqugGhAen7FiPTbeUxmlvzBCAD74R5Bmiowi5HXftjbWKlMBgT7YN1O45iPb2Cnt-/s1600/Fawn+Alabama+Extension.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_kCYxovSLZofPm2nnBSA55Me_JBR5-PXlk5qfoL9nTRXlkd_PSAGAhTiNXcMiBY1U6Y-fBJTIBMcmqugGhAen7FiPTbeUxmlvzBCAD74R5Bmiowi5HXftjbWKlMBgT7YN1O45iPb2Cnt-/s400/Fawn+Alabama+Extension.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fawn (<i>Alabama Cooperative Extension</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Watching wildlife is a really fun and exciting activity. It can be very enjoyable to watch wildlife in their natural state in our surroundings. This time of year can be especially exciting because the young wild animals can be seen.<br />
<br />
If we are outside, we may come across young wild animals that appear to be abandoned or orphaned. The big question is what should we do about it?<br />
<br />
First and foremost, do not bring the animal in your home for care. This may be the worst thing you can do for these young animals.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
Young animals that appear orphaned or abandoned are generally not. In most cases, the animal's parents are nearby and waiting for you to leave the area. Many different species of wildlife will leave their young for several hours and return for short periods of time.<br />
<br />
Wild mother rabbits, for example, will leave their young during the daylight hours, and only come back to feed the wild bunnies about twice a day. At approximately 15 days old, wild bunnies are weaned and eating on their own.<br />
<br />
Young deer, called fawns, can often be found alone because they do not flee from danger until about 14 days old. Like with rabbits, deer will leave their young and come back to feed it twice a day.<br />
<br />
Providing care to wild animals is illegal unless you have state and federal permits. In addition, young wild animals need very extensive and specific care. For example, some hatchling birds require feedings every 15 minutes for 14 hous a day with very specialized food.<br />
<br />
If you suspect young wild animals have actually been abandoned, orphaned, or even sick, do not immediately try to capture it. Instead, monitor the animal from a distance. A young animal that looks well-fed with bright eyes and clean fur or feathers is probably not orphaned, and not in need of unnecessary care.<br />
<br />
If you suspect the animal does need care, contact the Kentucky Department of Fish & Wildlife and let conservation officers and wildlife biologists handle the animals.<br />
<br />
It is for your own safety that we stress caution around wildlife. Wild animals have the ability to carry diseases, as well as injure you and themselves if you try to handle them.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-44256540825420033612013-06-06T07:00:00.000-04:002013-06-06T07:00:05.315-04:002013 Carroll County Fair<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ywhLVr9Ca3KXq7Id9SQ_W82NS1nW6Q4UWb1ZrURHqk-6v9LfLTZoK8ghm1_Xck9mBDae-sLLUCK0PdZIZ4wzDIlPwtRi1pN4rQGU3JwRUT8F15cSlBiAHUuyBB9pcDJfKWThbSBGrIPD/s1600/County+Fair.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ywhLVr9Ca3KXq7Id9SQ_W82NS1nW6Q4UWb1ZrURHqk-6v9LfLTZoK8ghm1_Xck9mBDae-sLLUCK0PdZIZ4wzDIlPwtRi1pN4rQGU3JwRUT8F15cSlBiAHUuyBB9pcDJfKWThbSBGrIPD/s1600/County+Fair.JPG" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"><b> </b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>IT'S COUNTY FAIR TIME!</b></span></div>
<br />
The 2013 Carroll County Fair begins tomorrow, June 7 at the Carroll County Fairgrounds in Carrollton.<br />
<br />
Over 130 4-H exhibits have already been judged, and will be in the Fair Exhibit Building for viewing tomorrow. Stop by the Exhibit Building to see what 4-H projects will be going to the Kentucky State Fair this year!<br />
<br />
Open exhibits will be accepted tomorrow, from 8 a.m. to noon at the Exhibit Building near the entrance to the Carroll County Fairgrounds.<br />
<br />
Livestock and animal shows will be excellent this year. 4-H and FFA volunteers had worked incredibly hard to make our 4-H Livestock Barn a place of beauty. If you're coming to the fair, be sure to walk down to the barns to look at all the shows we have going on. Here's a schedule: <br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
<b>Livestock & Animal Shows</b><br />
<br />
<i>Saturday, June 8</i><br />
<br />
4-H/Open Beef Show<br />
Weigh-in: 3 p.m.<br />
Show: 5 p.m.<br />
<br />
<i>Monday, June 10</i><br />
<br />
4-H/Open Swine Show<br />
Weigh-in: 4 p.m.<br />
Show: 6 p.m.<br />
<br />
<i>Tuesday, June 11</i><br />
<br />
4-H Dog Show<br />
Check-in: 6 p.m.<br />
Show: 7 p.m.<br />
(Open to Carroll County 4-H Dog Club members only)<br />
<br />
<i>Wednesday, June 12</i><br />
<br />
4-H/Open Sheep Show<br />
Weigh-in: 4 p.m.<br />
Show: 6 p.m.<br />
<br />
<i>Thursday, June 13</i><br />
<br />
4-H/Open Poultry Show<br />
Coop-in: 4 p.m.<br />
Show: 5 p.m.<br />
<br />
4-H/Open Rabbit Show<br />
Check-in: 6 p.m.<br />
Show: 7 p.m.<br />
<br />
<i>Friday, June 14</i><br />
<br />
4-H/Open Goat Show<br />
Weigh-in: 4 p.m.<br />
Show: 6 p.m.<br />
<br />
<i>Saturday, June 15</i><br />
<br />
4-H Horse Show<br />
Check-in: 5 p.m.<br />
Show: 6 p.m.<br />
<br />
For any information regarding the shows, contact the Carroll County Cooperative Extension Service at (502) 732-7030.<br />
<br />
Come out and support 4-H and the Carroll County Fair! We hope to see you there! Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-30944300829576890692013-06-05T15:32:00.000-04:002013-06-05T15:32:15.190-04:00Soil Compaction in the Garden<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhluiKpBTovRK5NiwtiCbLxMveVP6q0lWOihuySfzdAkhWsPx0tyTvQMfV-OnvCJGH9djG3KYAqfd_zY90sd9qBWr4ErjstbjHB0VfVY7W1Y3ovYU-9368Q-UsYSVi7j7yP_UOew61zS-di/s1600/Garden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhluiKpBTovRK5NiwtiCbLxMveVP6q0lWOihuySfzdAkhWsPx0tyTvQMfV-OnvCJGH9djG3KYAqfd_zY90sd9qBWr4ErjstbjHB0VfVY7W1Y3ovYU-9368Q-UsYSVi7j7yP_UOew61zS-di/s320/Garden.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Gardening season is in full force with the threat of frost now behind us. Before the garden went in, we had soil on our minds with testing the soil for fertilizer and lime needed. However, now is also a good time to think about your soil.<br />
<br />
I have talked about soil compaction in cropland, but soil compaction also creates an unfriendly growing environment for garden plants. It is a serious problem for many home gardeners. Thankfully, it is relatively easy to prevent.<br />
<br />
Compaction transforms soil into a difficult environment for plant growth by making it harder for roots, water, and soil to penetrate the ground. Major causes are working the soil when it is too wet, foot traffic, and excessive rototiller use.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
To reduce this problem, it is best to avoid working in the garden or walking in it when the soil is too wet. Squeeze a handful of soil and if it forms a muddy ball, rather than crumbling when you open your hand, stay out of the garden area.<br />
<br />
Walk between plants and rows in the garden area to reduce compaction in primary plant growth areas.<br />
<br />
Excessive rototiller use destroys soil structure and promotes compaction. When compaction takes place in a dense soil structure, it also makes root growth more difficult.<br />
<br />
A little hand hoeing, rather than a rototiller, may be all you need to do to eliminate a few weeds. It usually causes less soil damage than repeated rototilling and is less harmful to the earthworms that help aerate the soil.<br />
<br />
You also can use mulch to control weeds instead of tilling. A two- to three-inch layer of mulch relieves the pressure of walking on the soil, reducing the degree of compaction.<br />
<br />
For more information about vegetable gardening, check out the UK publication, <a href="http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id128/id128.pdf" target="_blank">ID-128: Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky</a>.<br />
<br />
Happy Gardening!Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-67576991407774421032013-05-29T07:00:00.000-04:002013-05-29T07:00:14.275-04:00Learn to Identify Key Forages<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj8vRDvYQJ_4ehk9yrw89CO5PhLkwcVJN7v4yzuT4SZtv4nBUGVT2HU9z2fOnJb6ABE6yANYFDP4HGFZIEQa33oBKHYBIuw5OA1X8__Bq9MzyujQ8sx4tmokuf3ppMAkDdw-FFKp6EV3hC/s1600/Horse+2+UK.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj8vRDvYQJ_4ehk9yrw89CO5PhLkwcVJN7v4yzuT4SZtv4nBUGVT2HU9z2fOnJb6ABE6yANYFDP4HGFZIEQa33oBKHYBIuw5OA1X8__Bq9MzyujQ8sx4tmokuf3ppMAkDdw-FFKp6EV3hC/s400/Horse+2+UK.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Developing a grazing management plan for your pastures is a critical practice for livestock producers because pasture is the most economical and efficient way to feed your animals.<br />
<br />
The first step in developing a grazing plan is identifying the forage species in your pastures. During most of the spring and fall in Kentucky, we find cool season grasses along with some legumes. The following descriptions are those forages we see most often: tall fescue, orchardgrass, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, white clover, and red clover.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
<b>TALL FESCUE</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMAg3bkfJyLsWHCV09sHrPtbBvrGB8KNDKOygcnHDVFSxe-g6RGPSea3I94K4R9JoaG5O1GXfSGwuwGu_zcB22FFtYFyrbQ8_N5LA31sxw3_c-IgqXkcpDDAWXtkUfpd9Vmxz_RGcfblL-/s1600/Tall+Fescue+UK+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMAg3bkfJyLsWHCV09sHrPtbBvrGB8KNDKOygcnHDVFSxe-g6RGPSea3I94K4R9JoaG5O1GXfSGwuwGu_zcB22FFtYFyrbQ8_N5LA31sxw3_c-IgqXkcpDDAWXtkUfpd9Vmxz_RGcfblL-/s320/Tall+Fescue+UK+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tall Fescue (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tall fescue is one of the most prominent forages in Kentucky. An easy way to identify this grass is to feel the blades. The blades of Kentucky 31 Tall Fescue, the most prevalent variety, are very rough and thick-feeling, particularly if you slide your hand down the plant towards the base. The base is a rolled stem, with a prominent auricle where the leaf attaches to the stem. Tall fescue is a bunch grass, and tends to grow straight up from the base of the plant.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMn9BWViSyGxu8JhPukrtXh33k9EtG2osrs8zExnhFGYJ9BTBSlsVykY_MrpaWPofF5GriBpXWM5qVTH_j7MtzcTGKIITQig2CXBIksmF4CISqW_DDZ3h7K_mYwVm-m3Dp3_1DBvynqHZk/s1600/Tall+Fescue+UK+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMn9BWViSyGxu8JhPukrtXh33k9EtG2osrs8zExnhFGYJ9BTBSlsVykY_MrpaWPofF5GriBpXWM5qVTH_j7MtzcTGKIITQig2CXBIksmF4CISqW_DDZ3h7K_mYwVm-m3Dp3_1DBvynqHZk/s320/Tall+Fescue+UK+3.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tall Fescue Seedhead (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgEMLW4fE5XnPbKU2tTHJaRJWGOl9avnjuln0cvkY2nviv_C4U3aFmNefgTr6-XBCwCOqS3-lFv4Ah_ZBt_w4cQkiVjh-sAsgLU7_iSsU58VcsS-czYb1YSUmDZuibz_KhXi-yTahr6Y-_/s1600/Tall+Fescue+UK+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgEMLW4fE5XnPbKU2tTHJaRJWGOl9avnjuln0cvkY2nviv_C4U3aFmNefgTr6-XBCwCOqS3-lFv4Ah_ZBt_w4cQkiVjh-sAsgLU7_iSsU58VcsS-czYb1YSUmDZuibz_KhXi-yTahr6Y-_/s200/Tall+Fescue+UK+1.jpg" width="170" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tall Fescue (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<u>Additional Facts</u>:<br />
<ul>
<li>Uses</li>
<ul>
<li>Pasture, hay, erosion control</li>
</ul>
<li>Advantages</li>
<ul>
<li>Ease of establishment into existing cool-season grasses. High quality
and high animal acceptance. Long stand life. Tolerant of wide range of
soil and climatic conditions (especially cool and wet). Good seed
production under grazing.</li>
</ul>
<li>Disadvantages</li>
<ul>
<li>Poor summer growth. Low yielding. Not good for hay. Potential for bloat
(especially in spring and with thick, lush stands). Thick stands of
established white clover can be extremely competitive with interseeded
forages.</li>
</ul>
<li>Seeding</li>
<ul>
<li>Rate: 15-20 lb/a</li>
<li>Depth: 1/3-1/2 in</li>
<li>Primary Date: Aug 15-Oct 1</li>
<li>Secondary Date: Feb 1-Apr 15</li>
</ul>
<li>Harvest</li>
<ul>
<li>Annual yield: 1-3 tons dry matter/</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<br />
<b>ORCHARDGRASS</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKqmeAo3FFF0zKfrFTprpvUWmeVTHZFDTxnEz02QlrTjOJGRujvcF54skgs0mejuUBFSoXQllbCsZzMVm-Co6PIjDoIzIWQU3BAzbLOHkV7yIP42a0_KLj7yv2Tts6qJcsNDFYrZP__TeS/s1600/Orchardgrass+UK+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKqmeAo3FFF0zKfrFTprpvUWmeVTHZFDTxnEz02QlrTjOJGRujvcF54skgs0mejuUBFSoXQllbCsZzMVm-Co6PIjDoIzIWQU3BAzbLOHkV7yIP42a0_KLj7yv2Tts6qJcsNDFYrZP__TeS/s320/Orchardgrass+UK+3.jpg" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orchardgrass (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Orchardgrass is also a bunch grass, but it has a softer, smoother feel than tall fescue. It is a more flexible and pliable grass. It is also one of the few plants to have a flat stem at the base, making it easy to identify. While color may vary slightly, orchardgrass looks more of a lighter gray/blue green, while tall fescue tends to be a darker green. This species will typically only persist in a stand for 5 or 6 years, as it is less tolerable to heavy grazing.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7t2F-O0YRcxtDxu3idXxKQOKDLn6IOVnbGdE3M5ydgfLBWgZMg68kqHhEHj7aVni3QaQWy1Fv6aK5bjN2b483RhSXhvJdnnUSHQmHlktV1x1ShWl-6qlD777bOKE0VnmX3_igUoT3bbAp/s1600/Orchardgrass+UK+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="104" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7t2F-O0YRcxtDxu3idXxKQOKDLn6IOVnbGdE3M5ydgfLBWgZMg68kqHhEHj7aVni3QaQWy1Fv6aK5bjN2b483RhSXhvJdnnUSHQmHlktV1x1ShWl-6qlD777bOKE0VnmX3_igUoT3bbAp/s320/Orchardgrass+UK+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orchardgrass Seedhead (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkJdEvhyphenhyphenqXvUZAn7jaxXsvrRl-2zPjuZ2OUs9F2UOydOAWVO7h375_ri0O0n6asMd2HjyHYlHdLE7AyfvUIvVILDCW5QBnawDlKVTeiGFfv2BNZ7O1I8GnwfTxvvpvOy9SAIpmedPPMiVC/s1600/Orchardgrass+UK+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkJdEvhyphenhyphenqXvUZAn7jaxXsvrRl-2zPjuZ2OUs9F2UOydOAWVO7h375_ri0O0n6asMd2HjyHYlHdLE7AyfvUIvVILDCW5QBnawDlKVTeiGFfv2BNZ7O1I8GnwfTxvvpvOy9SAIpmedPPMiVC/s200/Orchardgrass+UK+1.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice the Flat Stem of Orchardgrass (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<u>Additional Facts</u>:</div>
<ul>
<li>Uses</li>
<ul>
<li>Primarily a hay plant, but may be used for pasture when a part of a mixture</li>
</ul>
<li>Advantages</li>
<ul>
<li>Large, first-cutting yields, high demand for hay either pure or in
mixtures, grows well with alfalfa and/or red clover. Good nutritive
quality when first cutting made in boot to early head.</li>
</ul>
<li>Disadvantages</li>
<ul>
<li>Short stand life, low quality when cut late, little regrowth after first
cutting. Clumpy growth habit and sensitivity to hot temperatures limit
its use in pasture.</li>
</ul>
<li>Seeding</li>
<ul>
<li>Rate: 3-6 lb/a</li>
<li>Depth: ¼-½ in</li>
<li>Primary Date: Aug 15-Oct 1</li>
<li>Secondary Date: Feb 1-Apr 15</li>
</ul>
<li>Harvest</li>
<ul>
<li>First harvest: May 15-June 1</li>
<li>Annual yield: 2-4 tons dry matter/a </li>
</ul>
</ul>
<br />
<b>KENTUCKY BLUEGRASS</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVIZ9fsaE2rR-iKlAWfvBGyxgDWhl-tNXsJ5JI0-HiKatKGsGjGkX6prXhubIZCrOY0cWGzN-DjW1l4AxSC-uxA3uyV6GnL8f-FUpISidAxmcrmNMfr6WMIQQxJcwny7U4IZvOANhrXw1E/s1600/Kentucky+Bluegrass+UK+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVIZ9fsaE2rR-iKlAWfvBGyxgDWhl-tNXsJ5JI0-HiKatKGsGjGkX6prXhubIZCrOY0cWGzN-DjW1l4AxSC-uxA3uyV6GnL8f-FUpISidAxmcrmNMfr6WMIQQxJcwny7U4IZvOANhrXw1E/s320/Kentucky+Bluegrass+UK+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kentucky Bluegrass (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Kentucky bluegrass can be identified by its signature mark of the boat-shaped tip at the end of the blade. It is a thin, upright grass that has a rolled stem at the base of the plant, and forms a dense sod, almost like a mat. It may be noticed before other cool season grasses as it typically seeds sooner than orchardgrass or tall fescue.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsIXmWRV36NfTN71TN55EPqJ7x9aOC4cZCNskCDQFE6sfchnwMKW5FREPzFxaIBVlPy_1MHFwq1AIW07NN22GK6xmdC9bhgX-uFR7b90Uknv6GeYBblAMAonWfFtJ12Ooel3XfdYkp7apO/s1600/Kentucky+Bluegrass+UK+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsIXmWRV36NfTN71TN55EPqJ7x9aOC4cZCNskCDQFE6sfchnwMKW5FREPzFxaIBVlPy_1MHFwq1AIW07NN22GK6xmdC9bhgX-uFR7b90Uknv6GeYBblAMAonWfFtJ12Ooel3XfdYkp7apO/s320/Kentucky+Bluegrass+UK+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kentucky Bluegrass Seedhead (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji_JoBtb8eNkW-m_Z_-rltz-MAxtjYb8zkVVxhipL4kWXtWgdPzpEgBKjlkpipiLbS15MMz84rPTf7QmPQaIUFTFsvCLRdfho1zZHiSqfqgG9UKWk39qb1vnnplh5J1MV71h0rYc8l-eP7/s1600/Kentucky+Bluegrass+UK+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji_JoBtb8eNkW-m_Z_-rltz-MAxtjYb8zkVVxhipL4kWXtWgdPzpEgBKjlkpipiLbS15MMz84rPTf7QmPQaIUFTFsvCLRdfho1zZHiSqfqgG9UKWk39qb1vnnplh5J1MV71h0rYc8l-eP7/s200/Kentucky+Bluegrass+UK+3.jpg" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boat-Shaped Leaf Blade Tip of Kentucky Bluegrass (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<u>Additional Facts</u>:<br />
<ul>
<li>Uses</li>
<ul>
<li>Pasture, with limited use for hay.</li>
</ul>
<li>Advantages</li>
<ul>
<li>High quality, highly palatable, long-lived pasture plant. Tolerates
close, frequent grazing better than most grasses. Forms tight sod.</li>
</ul>
<li>Disadvantages</li>
<ul>
<li>Low yields, low summer production, becomes dormant and brown during hot,
dry summers. More susceptible to grubs and insects than other pasture
grasses. Slow to establish. Limited adaptation area (central, northern,
and northeastern Kentucky).</li>
</ul>
<li>Seeding</li>
<ul>
<li>Rate: 10-15 lb/a</li>
<li>Depth: ¼-½ in</li>
<li>Primary Date: Aug 15-Oct 1</li>
<li>Secondary Date: Feb 1-Apr 15</li>
</ul>
<li>Harvest</li>
<ul>
<li>First harvest: May 1-May 15</li>
<li>Annual yield: 1-3 tons dry matter/a
</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<br />
<b>PERENNIAL RYEGRASS</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijeDtOga26xgpd8QQtPHX74mVsHMG-XzMnaVH5RNH25um27HbVg_QXn_NNvrdgAeEzHunYOykDRei_9AgKkB2H6ocDZq2lr4Z07eoFYqdXpc1rOCp6gMGkfYi4SFTQ5BPoUqqZdNdOQZHx/s1600/Perennial+Ryegrass+UK+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijeDtOga26xgpd8QQtPHX74mVsHMG-XzMnaVH5RNH25um27HbVg_QXn_NNvrdgAeEzHunYOykDRei_9AgKkB2H6ocDZq2lr4Z07eoFYqdXpc1rOCp6gMGkfYi4SFTQ5BPoUqqZdNdOQZHx/s200/Perennial+Ryegrass+UK+1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shiny/Glossy Leaf Blades of Perennial Ryegrass (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Perennial ryegrass can look similar to tall fescue, but the grass has a smoother, thinner leaf. Also, this grass tends to have a glossy sheen at times. This grass is less persistent than most cool season grasses, as it is less winter hardy and not very drought tolerant.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi15kLq8L0E3Eelfl35UTtNVn8lPBWmdFfGBg4ZptexOlzl5xp7fWCgmFs2oclG_useqiiMIzII2MP2cm8OovuYYBy2NT5S4TNvOZv59NC9KxKp6yI4CkLiQz8LR9M5W-w247j5CmOyHNbp/s1600/Perennial+Ryegrass+UK+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi15kLq8L0E3Eelfl35UTtNVn8lPBWmdFfGBg4ZptexOlzl5xp7fWCgmFs2oclG_useqiiMIzII2MP2cm8OovuYYBy2NT5S4TNvOZv59NC9KxKp6yI4CkLiQz8LR9M5W-w247j5CmOyHNbp/s200/Perennial+Ryegrass+UK+3.jpg" width="144" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perennial Ryegrass Seedhead (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDWMLLhINNoISWVj1QLjOZKKrp-YHikcInfEIKPpOOWDtsCcOhExIwNl_PRJrPsgiIUAP5DZ6KkNmVglI5DN6WyeykYeZ8jk2iqwu5PL-oLo4LZy7WiTOLlIBkaxPp-VDSliGsl0zcBNeF/s1600/Perennial+Ryegrass+UK+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDWMLLhINNoISWVj1QLjOZKKrp-YHikcInfEIKPpOOWDtsCcOhExIwNl_PRJrPsgiIUAP5DZ6KkNmVglI5DN6WyeykYeZ8jk2iqwu5PL-oLo4LZy7WiTOLlIBkaxPp-VDSliGsl0zcBNeF/s1600/Perennial+Ryegrass+UK+2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perennial Ryegrass (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<u>Additional Facts</u>:<br />
<ul>
<li>Uses</li>
<ul>
<li>Fall and winter pasture, hay, erosion control.</li>
</ul>
<li>Advantages</li>
<ul>
<li>High nutritive quality and palatability, excellent seedling vigor, reseeds itself easily, tolerates close grazing.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Disadvantages</li>
<ul>
<li> Not always winter-hardy. Low quality after heading. Can be overly
competitive in mixtures. Reseeds prolifically and can be a troublesome
weed in crop fields.</li>
</ul>
<li>Seeding</li>
<ul>
<li>Rate: 20-30 lb/a</li>
<li>Depth: ¼-½ in</li>
<li>Date: Aug 15-Oct 1</li>
</ul>
<li>Harvest</li>
<ul>
<li>First harvest: Apr 20-May 15</li>
<li>Annual yield: 1-3 tons dry matter/a
</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<br />
<b>WHITE CLOVER & RED CLOVER </b><br />
<br />
White clover and red clover, both legumes, can appear very similar at first glance but they actually have very distinguishable features setting them apart. While both are clovers with true trifoliate leaves, white clover produces a white flower while red clover produces a red flower. Red clover has hair on the stem, and white clover does not. White clover tends to grow smaller leaves closer to the ground, while red clover will grow a bit more upright, producing larger leaves. White clover has stolons, or underground runners, which allow the plant to grow more horizontally and cover more surface area.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfPYKl7lndMLCvLd9DmwVVxfK84dV8pUz_tqYlHiL6QtQfZk0VWTz7w0kxJ-3yjb-X43JHZjfucy2LqrRNtBD_54gcR_ZPZCnjLe_UjhnT5QreZSffg7ruiotOU86q3hlGPzV6fk0ZQArQ/s1600/White+Cover+UK+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfPYKl7lndMLCvLd9DmwVVxfK84dV8pUz_tqYlHiL6QtQfZk0VWTz7w0kxJ-3yjb-X43JHZjfucy2LqrRNtBD_54gcR_ZPZCnjLe_UjhnT5QreZSffg7ruiotOU86q3hlGPzV6fk0ZQArQ/s320/White+Cover+UK+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Clover Flower (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg36MFPA68oIs5EBxbs2n5-V1gofHX9pGlSraokg5cUm7YRCwXvZh6-LRB9iRWo8fc99gtBTH4rcLcmdZhHZwbSvu2TKxey-b2RlZXpw0HHftda9QQ79fhyIizzzvSeI8JdaiWBXxLkjqgP/s1600/White+Cover+UK+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg36MFPA68oIs5EBxbs2n5-V1gofHX9pGlSraokg5cUm7YRCwXvZh6-LRB9iRWo8fc99gtBTH4rcLcmdZhHZwbSvu2TKxey-b2RlZXpw0HHftda9QQ79fhyIizzzvSeI8JdaiWBXxLkjqgP/s320/White+Cover+UK+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Clover Stolons (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<u>Additional Facts for White Clover</u>:<br />
<ul>
<li>Uses</li>
<ul>
<li>Pasture and wildlife. </li>
</ul>
<li>Advantages</li>
<ul>
<li>Ease of establishment into existing cool-season grasses. High quality
and high animal acceptance. Long stand life. Tolerant of wide range of
soil and climatic conditions (especially cool and wet). Good seed
production under grazing.
</li>
</ul>
<li>Disadvantages</li>
<ul>
<li>Poor summer growth. Low yielding. Not good for hay. Potential for bloat
(especially in spring and with thick, lush stands). Thick stands of
established white clover can be extremely competitive with interseeded
forages.
</li>
</ul>
<li>Seeding</li>
<ul>
<li>Rate: 1-3 lb/a</li>
<li>Depth: ¼-½ in</li>
<li>Primary Date: Feb 1-Apr 15</li>
<li>Secondary Date: Aug 1-Sep 15
</li>
</ul>
<li>Harvest</li>
<ul>
<li>Annual yield: 1-3 tons dry matter/a </li>
</ul>
</ul>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDpBbBlY9Q0PqDLa-RywltKgcXCK5ptPOUctDE_RdABJOkyXdvnCUNJYIIRZUcL40b0FwoSurKlLQINy7mVdfsOmA3opsqSSsVRk10iH6_f05sTkO7MANpXjspbodPIo_EMlDmLvnMbZ4Q/s1600/Red+Clover+UK+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDpBbBlY9Q0PqDLa-RywltKgcXCK5ptPOUctDE_RdABJOkyXdvnCUNJYIIRZUcL40b0FwoSurKlLQINy7mVdfsOmA3opsqSSsVRk10iH6_f05sTkO7MANpXjspbodPIo_EMlDmLvnMbZ4Q/s320/Red+Clover+UK+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Clover Flowers (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4lsqZvbN5zE3qMGfxu86CKCZrX_i7wxs3jy6fm6DxYTFruBA5wM_pAsWOyAcbFTJDc_2zjYO57tXl3CZvSbGYVby8FP3BL5PYmE4TjV6epqWNGA1-5cwb2LpPO_feeaIW-_X-hWtMNd9r/s1600/Red+Clover+UK+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4lsqZvbN5zE3qMGfxu86CKCZrX_i7wxs3jy6fm6DxYTFruBA5wM_pAsWOyAcbFTJDc_2zjYO57tXl3CZvSbGYVby8FP3BL5PYmE4TjV6epqWNGA1-5cwb2LpPO_feeaIW-_X-hWtMNd9r/s1600/Red+Clover+UK+3.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upright Growth and Tap Root of Red Clover (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<u>Additional Facts for Red Clover</u>:<br />
<ul>
<li>Uses</li>
<ul>
<li>Hay, pasture, haylage.</li>
</ul>
<li>Advantages</li>
<ul>
<li>Widely adapted, good seedling vigor, complements tall fescue and other cool-season grasses. Established easily, high yields.
</li>
</ul>
<li>Disadvantages</li>
<ul>
<li>Shorter stand life than alfalfa and white clover. Heavy first cuttings
are difficult to cure. Hay is dusty. Overmature second cutting red
clover hay may have a fungus that causes animals to slobber.
</li>
</ul>
<li>Seeding</li>
<ul>
<li>Rate: 8-12 lb/a</li>
<li>Depth: ¼-½ in</li>
<li>Primary Date: Feb 1-Apr 15</li>
<li>Secondary Date: Aug 1-Sep 15
</li>
</ul>
<li>Harvest</li>
<ul>
<li>First harvest: May 1-May 15</li>
<li>Annual yield: 2-5 tons dry matter/a
</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<br />
For those forages that you have questions about their identity, please feel free to bring a sample to the Extension Office to be identified.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-25802246081167451092013-05-24T10:00:00.000-04:002013-05-24T10:00:15.085-04:00Carpenter Bee Control<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carpenter Bee, <i>Xylocopa</i> sp. (<i>R. Bessin, 2000</i>)</td></tr>
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Have you noticed the presence of carpenter bees around your home lately?<br />
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These beneficial pollinators can be intimidating. They are relatively large in size and can cause considerable structural damage over time.<br />
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Carpenter bees spend the winter as adults in their gallery homes. Now, they are starting new tunnels or expanding old ones in order to raise a brood of about six larvae during the summer. Accumulations of sawdust may be the first sign that their work has begun.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carpenter Bee Tunnel with Larval Cells (<i>USDA Forestry Service, Wood Products Insect Lab Archives</i>)</td></tr>
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A carpenter bee uses its strong mandibles to chew a 1/2-inch diameter entry hole into wood, then turns to follow the grain. The tunnel is lengthened at the rate of about 1 inch per week. Ultimately, it can be 6 to 10 inches long and can contain 6 to 7 individual larval cells. Each cell is provisioned with a ball of nectar and pollen as food for the grub-like larva. Over the years, galleries may become several feet long.<br />
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Carpenter bees prefer weathered softwood but will chew into stained, treated, or painted wood. Eaves, window trim, facia boards, siding, wooden shakes, decks, and outdoor furniture are satisfactory choices, too. Even pressure-treated, stained, or painted wood is not completely safe from attack.<br />
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Carpenter bees are solitary insects, each living in individual tunnels. However, large numbers can build where there is an abundance of suitable nesting material.<br />
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Carpenter bee control is not easy, so prevention is the best long-term strategy. Use of hardwoods when practical or covering softwoods with flashing or screen will prevent inijury to areas that are chronically attacked.<br />
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Closing barn and shed doors while the bees are establishing new galleries should help to reduce infestations. General maintenance helps because carpenter bees exploit rough areas on wood surfaces to begin a nest. Filling cracks and crevices, and painting or varnishing exposed wood will make it less attractive.<br />
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There are some insecticide options but accessibility and dimensions of infested surfaces can make treatment impractical or limit its success. The use of dust formulations of insecticides, applied directly into tunnel openings, has been the favored option. In this approach, bees are exposed to the dust as they enter and leave. Ultimately, they should receive a lethal dose.<br />
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Example dusts include boric acid dust, or produces such as Bonide Termite & Carpenter Ant Dust (deltamethrin). Diatomaceous earth and combinations of dusts with desiccants are also possibilities.<br />
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Insecticide sprays can be applied into tunnels but pick-up of the dried residue may not be as rapid as with dusts. Insecticide applications to wood may provide some preventive effect but bees are not ingesting the wood, only gouging it away so they can work quickly through the treated surface.<br />
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Example sprays include Bayer Home Pest Control Indoor & Outdoor Insect Killer (cyfluthrin), Bonide Total Pest Control Outdoor Formula (permethrin), Bonide Termite & Carpenter Ant Killer Ready to Use (deltamethrin), and Spectracide Bug Stop (1-cyhalothrin).<br />
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After treatment, tunnel entries should be filled and sealed so they are not attractive to bees next season.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-39750189174619649202013-05-24T09:00:00.000-04:002013-05-24T09:00:06.852-04:00Thunderstorm Safety<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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In spring and summer, weather patterns are more active as they move through Kentucky, especially in the afternoon and evening, resulting in more thunderstorms.<br />
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These weather conditions also increase the potential for lightning to strike people working or playing outdoors, and even while they are inside a building.<br />
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All thunderstorms produce lightning. Sometimes called "nature's fireworks," lightning is produced by the buildup and discharge of electrical energy between negatively and positively charged areas. An average lightning charge can provide enough energy to keep a 100-watt light bulb burning for more than three months!<br />
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Other dangers associated with thunderstorms are heavy rains that lead to flash floods, strong winds, hail, and tornadoes. These weather conditions can injure or kill people and pets, as well as cause billions of dollars in crop and property damage.<br />
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Thunder results from a shock wave caused by rapid heating and cooling of air near the lightning channel.<br />
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Do you know how to estimate the miles between yourself and a lightning flash?<br />
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Simply count seconds between lightning and thunder, and divide this time by five. Sound travels about a mile every five seconds. For example, if you count 30 seconds between lightning and thunder, lightning has flashed within 6 miles of you. This puts you within lightning striking distance, according to scientific research.<br />
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What is the most important thunderstorm safety precaution?<br />
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Be aware of approaching thunderstorms and move to a safe shelter before the storm arrives in your area. If you see lightning, hear thunder, observe dark clouds or you hair stands on end, immediately go inside a sturdy, completely enclosed building, home or a hard-top vehicle with closed windows.<br />
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Avoid picnic shelters, sports dugouts, covered patios, carports, and open garages. Small wooden, vinyl, or metal sheds provide little, if any, protection.<br />
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Since metal conducts lightning, do not touch metal inside or outdoors. Drop metal backpacks. Release golf clubs, tennis rackets, fishing gear, and tools. Get off bicycles and motorcycles.<br />
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Lighting can strike water and travel a long distance in it. Standing in water, even in rubber boots, is not safe during a thunderstorm. Neither are swimming, wading, snorkeling, and scuba diving. If you are in a small boat during a storm, crouch in the middle and stay away from metal substances.<br />
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When caught in an open, exposed area, crouch down and stay away from tall objects, such as trees. Remember to stay away from clotheslines, fences, exposed sheds and other elevated items that can conduct lightning.<br />
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If you are indoors, remember lightning can enter buildings as a direct strike, though pipes and wires extending outside or through the ground. Telephone use is a leading cause of indoor lightning injuries in America because the charges can travel a long way in telephone and electrical wires, especially in rural areas.<br />
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Windows and doors provide a direct path for lightning to enter a building as well, so avoid them. During a thunderstorm, stay away from laundry appliances because they are connected to plumbing and electrical systems. Dryer vents also offer a direct electrical pathway outdoors.<br />
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Remember pet safety. Lightning can easily strike animals chained to a tree or wire runner. Doghouse generally are no protected against lightning strikes either.<br />
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Stay safe this weather season!Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-76709016907091874872013-05-08T07:00:00.000-04:002013-05-08T07:00:18.758-04:00Emerald Ash Borer Confirmed in Carroll County<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emerald Ash Borer, adult (<i>University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service</i>)</td></tr>
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The presence of the Emerald Ash Borer (EAB), a serious invasive pest of ash trees, has been confirmed in Carroll County.<br />
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The EAB can attack all species of ash in landscapes, forests, and woodlots. The insect will attack stressed and healthy trees greater than about 1.5 inches in diameter.<br />
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Although Carroll County has been in the quarantine area since the insect was discovered in Kentucky in 2009, this is the first time the insect has been found here. The amount of die-back seen in the infested trees indicates that the infestation is probably two to three years old.<br />
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According to a US Department of Agriculture Forest Service survey, Carroll County has slightly over 3 million ash trees and ranks 34th in the state. There are lots of ash trees in neighboring counties (number in millions of ranking): Henry (#1 - 6.8), Owen (#11 - 5.2), Gallatin (#20 - 3.7), and Trimble (#70 - 1.2).<br />
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Homeowners who want to protect their ash trees themselves can use a soil drench with a systemic insecticide containing the active ingredient, imidacloprid. It is available under a variety of brand names, which usually include the words "12-month tree and shrub insect control" on the label.<br />
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The drench treatment is an effective treatment for trees up to about 15 inches in diameter at breast height (4.5 ft above ground level). The treatment has to be repeated annually.<br />
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Ideally, the drench treatment should be applied in early April, but homeowners who treat now will probably get some benefit. As with all pesticides, be sure to read and follow the directions stated on the label.<br />
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Commercial applicators certified in Turf and Ornamental Pest Control have equipment and products that can protect large trees. These can be injected into the tree or applied as a trunk spray.<br />
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For more information on the Emerald Ash Borer, contact the Carroll County Cooperative Extension Service at (502) 732-7030. EAB information can also be found at UK's website, <a href="http://pest.ca.uky.edu/EXT/EAB/welcome.html" target="_blank">Emerald Ash Borer in Kentucky</a>.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-42807731792695951992013-05-01T09:54:00.001-04:002013-05-01T09:54:19.192-04:00Horn Fly & Face Fly Control in Cattle<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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With the warmer weather upon us, we need to take a closer look at pests that can be bothersome to our cattle. Horn flies and face flies are two of those pests.<br />
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Both species breed in fresh pasture manure piles but present very different threats and management problems. Fortunately, there are a variety of fly control options.<br />
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Horn flies are blood feeders. They remain on animals most of the time, taking 20 to 30 small blood meals per day. More than 100 flies along the sides and backs of each animal every day during the fly season can mean 12 to 15 pounds lower weaning weights for spring calves and poor gains for older animals. The close association between the horn fly and the animal, however, does make many control methods quite effective.<br />
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Face flies spend about 90 percent of their time resting off of animals and visit them only to feed on liquids around the eyes and face. This makes some fly control methods more effective than others because face flies visit hard-to-treat areas for very short time periods.<br />
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One control option is insecticide-impregnated cattle ear tags which release small amounts of an insecticide distributed over the animal during grooming or rubbing. In general, ear tags provide excellent, long-term control of horn flies and some brands also reduce face fly numbers. Another advantage is that animals only have to be handled once.<br />
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Read the label before you purchase and use insecticide ear tags. All tags are labeled for beef cattle while only those with certain active ingredients are approved for use on lactating dairy cattle.<br />
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For fly control, it is best to tag animals after horn fly numbers reach 50 or more per side. This reduces the chances of developing resistance to the active ingredients that are being used. Normally, tags provide 12 to 15 weeks of fly control. Tagging too early in the season can mean the tags are not providing control in the fall that will help to control the overwintering population.<br />
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Another method of control is pour-on products. These are ready-to-use formulations that are applied to animals in measured doses based upon body weight. Horn flies are killed as they land on treated areas of the animal and pick up the insecticide through their body.<br />
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Typically, the pour-ons provide about four weeks of fly reduction so they must be reapplied at intervals or used in combination with other methods. The length of control will vary with weather and other factors so treat again when fly numbers build back up to about 100 per side but no sooner than the label instructions allow.<br />
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Many cattle producers like to use self-application devices, such as dust bags, back rubbers, or automatic sprayers for pasture fly control. They can be purchased ready-made or assembled from easily found materials. These devices can do a very effective job of horn fly control and may provide satisfactory to excellent face fly control. All require regular inspection and service to be sure that they are working and dispensing properly and may not be as mobile as other fly control systems.<br />
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Location is important for these fly control methods. They must be put where animals can use them regularly. The number needed will vary with herd size, pasture area, and other factors. The ultimate goal is to get each animal treated regularly.<br />
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Horn flies and face flies breed in cattle droppings in pastures. Manure can be made toxic by having animals consume an insecticide that passes out in the manure. Mineral blocks or loose supplements are available which contain fly control products. This method is only a part of a total pasture fly control program because horn flies and face flies will move in from nearby herds. Supplemental control through the use of dust bags or back rubbers is needed to deal with these "fly-ins."<br />
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Additional information can be found on this UK website by clicking <a href="http://www.uky.edu/Ag/PAT/recs/livestk/recbeef/beeffly.htm" target="_blank">HERE</a>.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-57537147670459981542013-04-24T07:00:00.000-04:002013-04-24T07:00:08.146-04:00Summer Pasture for Horses<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
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With pastures greening up well across the county, it is time to start planning ahead with summer pasture needs for your horses.<br />
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Pasture provides a significant percentage of horses' nutrient needs. Although horses have more grass than they can consume in the spring when moisture is adequate, the hot and dry conditions of summer greatly reduce available pasture. Good management is the key to getting through this growth slump.<br />
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Some livestock producers might use temporary summer pasture to overcome the summer growth slump. However, horse owners do not have this option, because many forages used for summer pastures are not suitable for horses.<br />
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For example, a beef cattle producer might use a sorghum-sudan hybrid. Horse owners should avoid this hybrid because it is known to cause serious problems in their animals.<br />
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Pearl millet is a potential forage for horse pastures during summer growth slumps. Owners considering this forage need to practice good grazing management strategies such as rotating horses off pasture when it has been grazed to 5 to 6 inches high.<br />
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Rotational grazing on cool summer forages is another way to provide some pasture during the growth slump. When using this system, it is important to prevent overgrazing.<br />
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Dividing pastures with an electric fence is a cost-effective way to allow horses to graze one area while limiting access to others until the forage is needed. Owners need to limit time on an area so horses do not graze the forage below 3 to 4 inches.<br />
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If conditions limit pasture re-growth, owners may establish a "sacrifice area" to feed hay and grain to meet horses' nutritional needs. Using a suitable feeder will reduce hay waste. "Sacrifice areas" are similar to a dry lot, but are an effective way to protect the remaining pastures.<br />
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For more information about horse pastures, check out the following UK publication, <a href="http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Forage/id1471.pdf" target="_blank">ID-147: Establishing Horse Pastures</a>. To learn more about rotational grazing, see UK publication, <a href="http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id143/id143.pdf" target="_blank">ID-143: Rotational Grazing</a>.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-1850437284444834862013-04-10T07:00:00.000-04:002013-04-23T10:13:41.197-04:00Weed Watch: Poison Hemlock<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poison hemlock, flowering (<i>University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension</i>)</td></tr>
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Last week, we focused on yellow buttercup emerging in fields and pastures. This week, let us take a closer look at another weed that we may be seeing on the farm--poison hemlock (<i>Conium maculatum</i>).<br />
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Although this plant is often seen along roadways, abandoned lots, fence rows, and other non-cropland sites, in more recent years, poison hemlock has expanded into grazed pasture lands and hay fields. The concern not only stems from its invasive nature, but the fact that it is one of the most toxic plants in the world.<br />
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Poison hemlock is classified as a biennial that reproduces only by seed. Flowers and new seed are typically produced in late May and June.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poison hemlock, rosette stage (<i>University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension</i>)</td></tr>
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Plants emerge as a cluster of leaves that form a rosette. Poison hemlock is most noticeable at this stage of growth in late fall through early spring with its parsley-like leaves which are highly dissected or fern-like. The individual leaves are shiny green and triangular in appearance.<br />
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As the plant begins to send up flower stalks, the leaves are alternately arranged on the main stem. Each individual leaf is pinnately compound with several pairs of leaflets that appear along opposite sides of the main petiole.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poison hemlock, mature (<i>University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension</i>)</td></tr>
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As the plant matures, poison hemlock can grow upwards to about 6 to 8 feet tall. At maturity the plant is erect, often with multi-branched stems, and forming a deep taproot.<br />
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Poison hemlock has hollow stems which are smooth with purple spots randomly seen along the lower stem that help distinguish it from other plants similar in appearance.<br />
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The flowers, when mature, are white and form a series of compound umbels (an umbrella-shaped cluster of small flowers) at the end of each terminal stalk.<br />
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All classes of livestock are known to be affected by poison hemlock. Cattle, horses, and goats are considered to be the most susceptible domestic animals.<br />
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Symptoms of poisoning can occur rapidly anywhere within 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on the animal, quantity consumed, and other factors. Initial symptoms can include nervousness, trembling, muscular weakness and loss of coordination, dilation of pupils, coma, and eventually death from respiratory paralysis.<br />
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Lethal doses for cattle are considered to be in the range of 0.2 to 0.5% of the animal's body weight. Poison hemlock is also known to cause fetal deformation when pregnant animals consume the plant.<br />
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Fortunately, most animals tend to avoid grazing poison hemlock if other forage is readily available. However, animals may be more prone to consume green plants during the late winter and early spring when other forage species are more limited.<br />
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All parts of the plant, including the seeds, are considered to contain the toxic principles (coniine and coniceine). Toxicity may be somewhat reduced in dried plants, but the potential for toxicity still exists, particularly when a sufficient quantity is consumed in dried hay. Therefore, extreme caution should be considered before feeding animals hay known to contain poison hemlock.<br />
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The principle strategy for poison hemlock control is to prevent seed production which can be a challenge since a fully mature plant is capable of producing 35,000 to 40,000 new seeds. It is too late to utilize herbicide control methods after plants have produced flowers. Therefore, mechanical control efforts (if feasible) such as mowing or cutting down individual plants should be initiated just before peak flower production to avoid or reduce the amount of new seed being produced.<br />
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Make note of areas heavily infested with poison hemlock this spring and begin to look for emergence of new plants in the fall. During the late fall (November) or early spring (March) is the best time of the year for herbicide treatment.<br />
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In grass pastures and hay fields, herbicide products containing 2,4-D can be effective when applied to young, actively growing plants that are in the rosette stage of growth. Spot treatments with products containing 2,4-D, triclopyr, or glyphosate can also be used depending on the location.<br />
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<br />Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-6923624018308245342013-04-03T07:00:00.000-04:002013-04-27T11:21:00.840-04:00Weed Watch: Yellow Buttercup<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Field of Yellow Buttercups (<i>University of Kentucky</i>)</td></tr>
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One of the signs that spring has arrived is when yellow buttercups begin to appear, but it is during the winter months that the vegetative growth of buttercup actually takes place.<br />
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As a cool-season weed, this plant often flourishes in over-grazed pasture with poor stands of desirable forages. In fact, many fields that have dense buttercup populations are fields heavily grazed by animals during the fall through the early spring months.<br />
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Buttercups are sometimes classified as short-lived perennials, but often grow as winter annuals. Plants typically produce five, shiny yellow petals in the early spring.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closeup of Yellow Buttercup (<i>University of Kentucky</i>)</td></tr>
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There are four different species of buttercups that may be found in Kentucky. bulbous buttercup (<i>Ranunculus bulbosus</i>), creeping buttercup (<i>Ranunculus repens</i>), tall buttercup (<i>Ranunculus acris</i>), and small flower buttercup (<i>Ranunculus arbortivus</i>). Although each of these plants may have somewhat similar flower heads, each of these buttercup species differs somewhat in their vegetative leaf characteristics.<br />
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New seeds are produced during the time petals are showy. If you wait until after flowers appear, it can be too late to implement control tactics. This is one reason buttercups can survive year to year and new plants emerge each year.<br />
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Most buttercup plants emerge from seed during the fall or late winter months. Therefore, pasture management practices that improve and promote growth of desirable plants during these months are the best methods to help compete against the emergence and growth of this plant. Livestock overgrazing fields during the fall and winter months is one of the main factors that contribute to buttercup problems.<br />
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You can mow fields or clip plants close to the ground in the early spring before buttercup plants can produce flowers and that may help reduce the amount of new seed produced, but mowing along will not totally eliminate seed production.<br />
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For chemical control, herbicides registered for use on grass pastures that contain 2,4-D will effectively control buttercup. Depending on other weeds present products that contain dicamba and 2,4-D (eg. Weedmaster), aminopyralid (eg. ForeFront, Milestone), triclopyr (eg. PastureGard, Crossbow), or metsulfuron (eg. Cimarron) can also be used.<br />
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Be aware that legumes, such as clovers interseeded with grass pastures, can be severely injured or killed by these herbicide products.<br />
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For optimum results apply a herbicide in the early spring (February--March) before flowers are observed, when buttercup plants are still small and actively growing. For best herbicide activity, wait until daytime air temperatures are greater than 50 degrees for two to three consecutive days. Consult the herbicide label for further information on grazing restrictions, precautions, or other possible limitations.<br />
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For fields heavily infested with buttercup, you may need a variety of control tactics. Apply a herbicide to help reduce the population of buttercup plants in the spring, plus use good pasture management techniques throughout the year to help improve and thicken the stand of desirable forages.<br />
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For more information about weed control in pastures, take a look at the UK publication <a href="http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr172/agr172.pdf" target="_blank">AGR-172: Weed Management in Grass Pastures, Hayfields, and Other Farmstead Sites</a>.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-8481402666466903192013-04-01T11:22:00.000-04:002013-04-01T11:22:16.011-04:00Tips to Prevent and Improve Soil Compaction<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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Soil compaction is a common problem that many producers face, but is often overlooked. Significant soil compaction can reduce forage yields and slow forage establishment. Management practices can be used to reduce and correct this problem while improving soil conditions.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soil compaction (right) presses soil particles together, reducing pore space. (<i>University of Minnesota Extension</i>)</td></tr>
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Compaction results when soil particles are pressed together, reducing pore space and aeration. The damage to the soil structure reduces the soil's ability to hold and conduct water, nutrients, and oxygen. Rate of water infiltration is decreased and more water is lost to runoff. Other effects of compaction include decreased organic matter, reduced microbial activity, poor drainage, increased erosion, and nutrient leaching.<br />
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These undesirable effects on the soil directly affect plant growth. Roots have increased difficulty when penetrating the soil which often results in reduced root growth and reduced ability to take up water and nutrients. Compacted soils can slow forage establishment, cause short and stunted plants, decrease drought tolerance, and reduce overall yields. Severely compacted areas often have sparse growth or are bare due to these problems.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soil compaction (right) restricts root and plant growth. (<i>TheOrangeGardener.org</i>)</td></tr>
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Soil compaction can be created from natural causes and operational functions. Severe compaction is almost always created through management practices. Natural compaction is produced by raindrop impact which can form a thin crust on the soil surface. This crust is usually less than one-half of an inch thick but may reduce seedling emergence.<br />
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Management sources come from traffic and tillage. Wheel traffic is a main contributor of soil compaction issues. As farm equipment has become heavier over time and producer's time has become more limited, this problem has increased.<br />
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Tillage operations at the same depth over time can also cause severe compaction of the soil layers below tillage depth. Wet soils are the most susceptible to compaction. Spring planting and haying operations are often performed on wet soils. Busy schedules and smaller windows of time to perform these procedures make waiting for optimal soil moisture difficult.<br />
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Hoof traffic is another cause of compaction, especially near waters, feeders, and gates.<br />
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Simple steps can be taken to prevent and reduce the severity of soil compaction. Knowing the soil type and soil properties is useful when making management decisions. Potential for compaction is increased in soils high in clay and low in organic matter. Building organic matter in the soil promotes development of good soil structure while decreasing soil bulk density.<br />
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Keeping a thick stand of forages, increasing manure distribution, and reducing tillage can build soil organic matter. Reducing or eliminating tillage, which breaks down the soil structure, reduces organic matter and microbial activity, and reduces plant residue on soil surface, is extremely beneficial.<br />
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If tillage is necessary, alter tillage depth over time. Controlling and reducing wheel traffic, especially on wet soils, is vital.<br />
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Planting a tillage radish in severely compacted areas is another way to reduce compaction. Not only does this crop provide thick ground cover, but its large tap roots can penetrate compacted soils.<br />
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Consider installing high-traffic pads around waters, feeders, and gates. More information on installing a high-traffic pad can be found in the UK publication <a href="http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id164/id164.pdf" target="_blank">ID-164: High Traffic Area Pads for Horses</a>. Regularly moving feeding areas can prevent these areas from becoming severely compacted. Also, consider using a sacrifice lot during extremely wet periods.<br />
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For more information about soil compaction, check out the UK publications <a href="http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr161/agr161.pdf" target="_blank">AGR-161: Soil Compaction in Kentucky</a> and <a href="http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id153/id153.pdf" target="_blank">ID-153: Assessing and Preventing Soil Compaction in Kentucky</a>.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-14473112862516190822013-03-20T07:00:00.000-04:002013-03-20T07:00:02.035-04:00Mowing Height for Lawns<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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Lawn mowing season is almost here, and I cannot wait! I am looking forward to dusting off the old push mower (Great exercise!) and getting to work. I love mowing the yard, and I especially love seeing how it looks once it is cut.<br />
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However, to keep the yard looking its best, we need to consider correct mowing heights. Since last week's article focused on fertilization of lawns, this week's article will continue the discussion with mowing lawns.<br />
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The first mowing, usually in late March, makes the lawn look spring-like and very attractive. Subsequent regular mowing hardens the grass for drought and heat stresses later on. When the first clump of grass grows above the mowing height, get out there and mow--even if a lot of the yard does not need to be mowed yet.<br />
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Not all grasses start growing at the same time. Grass on northern slopes, or in heavy clay soil, will start growing several days later than normal. Grass that was not fertilized in the fall or early spring also has delayed growth.<br />
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Following recommendations for mowing height and frequency will make lawn care duties easier and result in a more attractive yard.<br />
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If your mower has a fixed, all-year height, set it at 2.5 inches.<br />
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However, if you can easily vary the height, set it at 1.5 to 2 inches for the first several times you mow this spring. The shorter mowing height will help remove a lot of the winter-burned, brown leaves. Furthermore, by exposing more dark green growth, it will transfigure your lawn into the most uniform, attractive lawn in the neighborhood. Move the height up to 2.5 inches after you mow the grass several times.<br />
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In summer, raise the mower height to 3 to 3.5 inches. This helps to protect the grass from summer heat and drought injury. However, remember that high grass, especially tall fescue, tends to fall over and mat down during hot summer weather causing increased summer disease problems.<br />
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In the fall, lower the mowing height to 2.5 inches.<br />
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For the winter, lower the mower to 1.5 to 2 inches. This shorter height improves the turf's winter and early spring color.<br />
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Never let grass go through the winter at a height of 4 or more inches because it will mat down and become diseased.<br />
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Generally speaking, mow often enough to remove no more than one-third to one-half of the grass height. If your mower is set for 2 inches, mow again when the grass height reaches approximately 3 inches. Be sure not to scalp the lawn by mowing off most of the green leaves.<br />
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For tall fescue lawns, a rule of thumb is to mow at five-day intervals during the spring, and at seven-day intervals the rest of the year.<br />
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If you have a Kentucky bluegrass lawn, a seven-day interval usually is sufficient at a 2.5-inch mowing height. You probably can extend that interval during hot, dry weather.<br />
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Do not mow by the calendar. Instead, watch the grass grow, and mow frequently enough to remove no more than one-third to one-half of grass height.<br />
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For more tips on mowing lawns, check out the UK Publication, <a href="http://www.uky.edu/Ag/ukturf/pubs.htg/Lawn%20Care/MowingFacts.PDF" target="_blank">Some Facts About Mowing</a>.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-71213057938668757352013-03-13T08:34:00.000-04:002013-03-13T08:52:52.175-04:00Lawn Fertilization in Spring<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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At the first sign of green grass in the spring, it is tempting to dust off the fertilizer spreader to apply nitrogen to the lawn. If you applied nitrogen late last fall or winter, there is no need to apply nitrogen this spring because the lawn already should be starting to green up.<br />
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Applying nitrogen now also will make grass less heat and drought tolerant and cause more problems with weeds and diseases. Weeds compete with grass for moisture and nutrients.<br />
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If you did not fertilize the lawn last fall, applying nitrogen this spring will be beneficial because it will green the lawn and make it look better for a few weeks.<br />
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However, spring fertilization causes such fast top growth you have to mow every four to five days in April and May to remove only one-third to one-half of the grass leaves each time. Cutting several inches of top growth at one time creates excess clippings that smother the grass below, or must be bagged and added to landfill debris.<br />
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Frequent mowing may serve as a reminder that a fall nitrogen application is much better for your lawn and you.<br />
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Although early spring usually is not the best time to apply nitrogen, it is the right time to apply a pre-emergence herbicide for persistent crabgrass problems. Since a pre-emergence herbicide only is effective before crabgrass germinates, be sure to apply it prior to mid-April and before crabgrass germinates and begins to compete with your grass.<br />
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Apply a post-emergence herbicide to control broadleaf weeds such as dandelion, chickweed, henbit, wild strawberry and ground ivy. Broadleaf weeds must be actively growing for the herbicide to work. Do not spray when the wind is blowing or the temperature is 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit because you could damage other plants in the yard or garden. If it is too hot for a general application, spot treat broadleaf weeds with a ready-mix foam or aerosol product.<br />
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For more information, check out the UK Publication <a href="http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr53/agr53.pdf" target="_blank">AGR-53 Lawn Fertilization in Kentucky</a>.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-13255855854627887932013-02-20T07:00:00.000-05:002013-02-20T07:00:11.377-05:00Got Manure for Fertilizer? Have it Tested!<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Manure Happens.</b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Make the Best of It</b></span>.</span></span></div>
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Properly using manure as a fertilizer can be both economically and environmentally beneficial. However, nutrients in manure vary widely, and therefore it is important to have your manure tested before application.<br />
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Testing allows for accuracy in nutrient management specific to your crop needs and it minimizes water contamination caused by nutrient run-off or leaching.<br />
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To have manure tested, gather samples and bring them to the Carroll County Cooperative Extension Office. Before samples are sent off, you will need to fill out some paperwork, similar to that of a soil sample. The cost is $25 per sample.<br />
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Once the completed paperwork and samples are in hand at the Extension Office, we ship the samples to the University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture's Division of Regulatory Service Soil Test Laboratory.<br />
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Results will be available in approximately one to two weeks. Upon return, I will interpret the analysis results and determine the appropriate application rates.<br />
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A sample must be sent for testing within 60 days prior to the date you plan to apply the manure since the nutrients can change with time. If you cannot deliver the sample to the Extension Office on the day of collection, refrigerate or freeze that samples until you are able to deliver them.<br />
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Below are suggestions for collecting manure samples and preferred transport methods:<br />
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<b>Poultry Manure</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Gather manure samples from poultry litter before you clean out the poultry house.</li>
<li>Collect ten (10) to twelve (12) samples from different areas of the poultry house and put them all in one clean bucket.</li>
<li>Mix the samples together and place the combined sample in a double 1-quart resealable bag for shipping.</li>
<li>Fill the container one-half to three-fourths full.</li>
</ul>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZYnCTGEMCGHAFnxa_YdxNd_IFlnXB7Q0zZgnTBGjJxKVUs1NljkcdqDSG10jKuadQOZe22FiLJYrPb2zH3Np-zMaq5jQKz13m2t6OxDZ08bw2uOqEWRVf0hwAjgaoyKUq4xe2fn4iVSc-/s1600/Soild+Manure+Sample+University+of+Nebraska-Lincoln.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZYnCTGEMCGHAFnxa_YdxNd_IFlnXB7Q0zZgnTBGjJxKVUs1NljkcdqDSG10jKuadQOZe22FiLJYrPb2zH3Np-zMaq5jQKz13m2t6OxDZ08bw2uOqEWRVf0hwAjgaoyKUq4xe2fn4iVSc-/s320/Soild+Manure+Sample+University+of+Nebraska-Lincoln.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Solid Manure Sample (<i>University of Nebraska-Lincoln</i>)</td></tr>
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<b>Beef Cattle Manure</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Manure samples from cattle are gathered, combined, and transported in the same manner as for poultry.</li>
</ul>
<b>Swine and Dairy Cattle Manure</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Collect liquid manure from dairy or swine held in a lagoon several feet into the lagoon, and not from the edge.</li>
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<li>It can also be gathered as the lagoon is being emptied.</li>
</ul>
<li>Liquid samples should be placed in the plastic bottles provided by the Extension Office.</li>
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<li>Call me to acquire a bottle.</li>
</ul>
<li>Fill the container one-half full.</li>
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<li>It is very important to not fill these plastic bottles completely full as the manure produces gases that can cause the bottle to explode.</li>
</ul>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUuxUo0vauwVhyphenhyphenmXCYxVd74RUEMJ1z3XH3znSmWkBIi7FX1WCAEpIz1RliOEhSah7VOPO8-jy9bZDLXa8mVrkaS1RNi-kpqNdc77Kw38a9X2AgWL1MRjkAN8K-6MX_tVAK5oOcLFxw2KXl/s1600/Liquid+Manure+Sample+Iowa+State+University.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUuxUo0vauwVhyphenhyphenmXCYxVd74RUEMJ1z3XH3znSmWkBIi7FX1WCAEpIz1RliOEhSah7VOPO8-jy9bZDLXa8mVrkaS1RNi-kpqNdc77Kw38a9X2AgWL1MRjkAN8K-6MX_tVAK5oOcLFxw2KXl/s320/Liquid+Manure+Sample+Iowa+State+University.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Liquid Manure Sample (<i>Iowa State University</i>)</td></tr>
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For maximum nutrient efficiency, it is important to apply the manure close to when the crop is planted. If you must use the manure in the fall, plant a cover crop to decrease the loss of nitrogen.<br />
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Additional information about manure sampling and testing can be found in the UK publication, <a href="http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id123/id123.pdf" target="_blank">ID-123 Livestock Waste Sampling and Testing</a>. Also, take a look at UK's <a href="http://www.uky.edu/Ag/AnimalSciences/pubs/agr165.pdf" target="_blank">AGR-165 The Agronomics of Manure Use for Crop Production</a>.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7460383623118753383.post-16160983904990462052013-02-13T16:38:00.000-05:002013-02-13T16:38:51.651-05:00Renovating with Annual and Perennial Ryegrass<i>Weekly Newspaper Article for The News-Democrat, Carrollton, KY</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh66n0wEJ6-ObIHqnuHh0TaTc9u-fVL0i8pqvrYvSwQXemOBlyF5o46GXGf0TeJJoqrCb2LYvjbjz7I-Nq0XqOIFKO_6IV9zLjPeaqPoxqJAoRlGrPYcEW57doGtwrOO8dz6-KU7jhKjWW_/s1600/Ryegrass+UK.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh66n0wEJ6-ObIHqnuHh0TaTc9u-fVL0i8pqvrYvSwQXemOBlyF5o46GXGf0TeJJoqrCb2LYvjbjz7I-Nq0XqOIFKO_6IV9zLjPeaqPoxqJAoRlGrPYcEW57doGtwrOO8dz6-KU7jhKjWW_/s400/Ryegrass+UK.png" width="293" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ryegrass (<i>University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture</i>)</td></tr>
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Many areas in pastures are susceptible to severe damage between late fall and early spring. High traffic areas such as feeding areas, sacrifice lots, alleyways, gateways and waterers are often bare and muddy this time of year.<br />
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To slow and reduce soil erosion, compaction, forage damage, and wee problems, these areas need to be renovated promptly. It is also beneficial for animal health to reduce muddy areas.<br />
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Both annual (Italian) and perennial reygrass are good options when renovating these areas.<br />
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These cool-season forages work well to renovate high traffic areas because they establish easier and more quickly than other common forage species. They are frequently used as a cover crop and can be useful when establishing new pastures or when reseeding old stands with more permanent forages.<br />
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The dense, shallow root system not only reduces erosion but also improves soil aggregate stability, reduces current compaction by breaking up dense soils, and helps to prevent future compaction. Vigorous growth helps these forages to outcompete unwanted late summer and winter annuals.<br />
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Annual ryegrass is more vigorous than perennial ryegrass, but provides only short term grass cover. It will die out during the summer whether it is planted in the spring or the fall of the previous year. The advantage of late summer or fall planting is high quality late fall and early spring grazing.<br />
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Perennial ryegrass is more susceptible to summer slump than other cool-season grasses, but with proper management (fertilization and rotational grazing), it can survive for 2-3 years in Kentucky pastures.<br />
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Some producers mix these two grasses to obtain quick cover from the annual reygrass and longer term survival from the perennial ryegrass.<br />
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Seeding ryegrass for quick coverage not only reduces erosion potential but also provides a valuable forage. These grasses are often used for pasture, hay, or silage. If harvested at a vegetative state, ryegrass is high in digestibility.<br />
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Compared to other cool-season grasses, this species is also high in protein and can be a useful feed for livestock with high nutritional needs such as lactating and growing animals. Renovating bare areas with ryegrass provides a high quality forage as well as protection for the soil.<br />
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Management of ryegrass is similar to that of other cool-season grasses. Drilling seed into a firm seedbed is recommended for best seedling establishment. Ryegrass can be seeded in the late summer/fall or early spring. It is possible to frost seed ryegrass by scattering seed on the soil surface in February but it is suggested that seed be drilled into the soil for maximum success. See UK's publication, <a href="http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr18/agr18.pdf" target="_blank">AGR-18 Grain and Forage Crop Guide for Kentucky</a> for detailed information on seeding dates, seeding rates, and more for annual and perennial ryegrass.<br />
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Fertilizer and lime should be applied according to soil test results. Doing split applications of nitrogen (40-60 pounds/acre) can be beneficial. It is important to use high quality see of a variety suited for the intended use. Using a winter hardy variety is suggested as this species is not highly tolerant of extremely cold temperatures.<br />
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Check out the UK <a href="http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/PR/PR648/PR648.pdf" target="_blank">2012 Ryegrass Variety Trial Report</a> for more research-based information on variety production. Another publication you can use for reference is <a href="http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr179/AGR179.PDF" target="_blank">AGR-179 Annual Ryegrass</a>.Christin Herbsthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14347489916269693610noreply@blogger.com0